Freelance Work by Steve Dennis

When Green Was a Color, Not a Life Style

2011-11-22T17:29:00.000-08:00

I didn't write this; I wish I had. But anyone who remembers the Mickey Mouse Club and Leave it to Beaver should appreciated it.

Checking out at the store, the young cashier suggested to the older woman that she should bring her own grocery bags because plastic bags weren't good for the environment.

The woman apologized and explained, "We didn't have this 'Green' thing back in my earlier days."

The clerk responded, "That's our problem today. Your generation did not care enough to save our environment for future generations."

She was right -- our generation didn't have the "Green" thing in its day.

Back then, we returned milk bottles, soda bottles and beer bottles to the store. The store sent them back to the plant to be washed and sterilized and refilled, so it could use the same bottles over and over. So they really were recycled. But we didn't have the green thing back in our day.

We walked up stairs, because we didn't have an escalator in every store and office building. We walked to the grocery store and didn't climb into a 300-horsepower machine every time we had to go two blocks. But she was right. We didn't have the green thing in our day.

Back then, we washed the baby's diapers because we didn't have the throw-away kind. We dried clothes on a line, not in an energy gobbling machine burning lots of watts -- wind and solar power really did dry our clothes back in our early days. Kids got hand-me-down clothes from their brothers or sisters, not always brand-new clothing. But that young lady is right; we didn't have the green thing back in our day.

Back then, we had one TV, or radio, in the house -- not a TV in every room. And the TV had a small screen the size of a handkerchief (remember them?), not a screen the size of the state of Montana . In the kitchen, we blended and stirred by hand because we didn't have electric machines to do everything for us. When we packaged a fragile item to send in the mail, we used wadded up old newspapers to cushion it, not Styrofoam or plastic bubble wrap. Back then, we didn't fire up an engine and burn gasoline just to cut the lawn. We used a push mower that ran on human power. We exercised by working so we didn't need to go to a health club to run on treadmills that operate on electricity. But she's right; we didn't have the green thing back then.

We drank from a fountain when we were thirsty instead of using a cup or a plastic bottle every time we had a drink of water. We refilled writing pens with ink instead of buying a new pen, and we replaced the razor blades in a razor instead of throwing away the whole razor just because the blade got dull. But we didn't have the green thing back then.

Back then, people took the streetcar or a bus and kids rode their bikes to school or walked instead of turning their moms into a 24-hour taxi service. We had one electrical outlet in a room, not an entire bank of sockets to power a dozen appliances. And we didn't need a computerized gadget to receive a signal beamed from satellites 2,000 miles out in space in order to find the nearest pizza joint.

But isn't it sad the current generation laments how wasteful we old folks were just because we didn't have the green thing back then?

Please forward this on to another selfish old person who needs a lesson in conservation from a smartass young person.

Remember: Don't make old People mad. We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to piss us off.

Helo to Fixed Wing; Platt Has Flown Them All.

2011-05-10T13:33:00.000-07:00

The following profile appeared in the May/June Aloft, a publication of the Seattle Museum of Flight.

Having flown a range of aircraft, from helicopters to B-52’s, Docent Jim Platt brings a unique viewpoint the MOF. He can draw on his 28 years of USAF flying and ten years at Boeing to enhance the MOF visitor experience.

With an ROTC commission Jim completed pilot training in 1966 and, based in Florida, began flying CH3C helicopters in support of the Manned Space Program and the Eastern Test Range. It was an exciting time to be a part of the space program. Sadly he recalls being an on call pilot the day of the tragic Apollo One fire that took the lives of astronauts Grissom, White and Chaffee.

He then went from putting men in space to plucking them out of jungles. Moving to a base Thailand in 1967 he flew 98 missions as a Rescue Crew Commander in a HH3E “Jolly Green” rescue helicopter. His flying took him into Laos on occasions where, for the record, they never went. Nine downed airmen owe their survival to Jim’s aircrew.

Responding to a shortage of qualified pilots the Air Force retrained Jim and placed him in the cockpit of a C-141 transport and, eventually, in a B-52 with SAC. His flying career earned him, among other recognitions, a Silver Star and Distinguished Flying Cross, each with an Oak Leaf Cluster.

After a career mixed with flying and staff positions in places like Hq 8th Air Force, Hq SAC Jim retired and moved to Boeing. After ten years working in flight certification he retired again and then, to get out from under his wife’s feet, joined the Docent crew in 2009 as a Thursday regular. He particularly enjoys working the Personal Courage Wing. He loves it when visitors challenge his knowledge with questions. “It shows they are interested,” he says.

He also enjoys working with other docents who have incredible life stories. One was a P-38 pilot in World War II while another fought in the Battle of the Bulge.

He was honored to join an MOF panel of Vietnam era veterans to discuss their experiences during the war. He feels it is important to recognize the sacrifice so many made at that time.

Three of his four kids caught the flying/service bug. One is a Lt. Commander in the Coast Guard Reserve, married to an F-16 pilot. A second is a USAF Major and Predator Operator, married to a British Tornado pilot. Jim’s son is with the FAA.

Jim’s own words say a lot about his passion for aviation. “I got to live my dream. I have nothing but fond memories.”

Diana Heaton, Docent on the Go, Museum of Flight Seattle

2011-05-10T13:23:00.000-07:00

The following profile appeared in the Jan/Feb issue of Aloft, the magazine of the Seattle Museum of Flight.

Diana Heaton, a retired IBM’er, likes to be active. She’s been a ski patroller, autocross racer and is still a competition water skier. And she loves to be around vintage aircraft. That is what drew Diana and her husband Dick to the MOF docent program nearly six years and 1200 volunteer hours ago. Diana is at the MOF each Sunday working the stations and leading tours. Her favorite assignment is the Personal Courage wing. As she puts it, “there is just something about those planes!”

In addition to her Sunday hours she has worked on women’s exhibits and enjoyed researching and writing some of the biographies for the “Chasing Horizons: Women in Aerospace” exhibits.

While Diana enjoys sharing her aviation knowledge with others she values the MOF as a personal learning resource for herself. Thirsting to expand her own knowledge base she takes advantage of every opportunity to learn from other volunteers and to attend MOF educational programs.

She and Dick take their interest in aviation with them when they travel. They have made several trips to the Reno Air Races and have thrilled to see and hear the P-51 fighters flash by. To have seen the planes in the air makes standing by the MOF’s new P-51 in the Personal Courage Wing very special.

They have also traveled across England on an aviation history tour, visiting sites that were important to British aviation heritage. A highlight of the trip was a visit to the Duxford Air Show at the Duxford “Aerodrome,” a field that dates back to World War I and is a part of the Imperial War Museum family of sites. “Duxford” is to the British what the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum is to Americans. For Diana one of the most inspiring moments at the show was a fly over of ten throaty Spitfire aircraft, loved by all “Brits” for their role in the air Battle of Britain.

The MOF is fortunate to have committed women, like Diana, in the docent corp helping to enrich the visitor experience, one visitor at a time.

Comet Restoration Moves Forward; Hood Leads the Way

2011-01-14T14:05:00.000-08:00

The following article by Stephen Dennis appeared in the November/December 2010 edition of Aloft, a publication of Seattle's Museum of Flight.

Bob Hood loves the Comet; the de Havilland Comet Mk4C, that is, currently at the MOF Restoration Center at Paine Field. He is about to celebrate his 15th anniversary with the Comet restoration team, which he now leads. In nearly 25 years he has amassed over 18,000 volunteer hours and adds another 26 hours working three days each week.

His passion pours forth as he explains the Comets many design innovations as the very first successful jet powered airliner. Structural issues with the first model tarnished its reputation in the industry but failed to alter his opinion.

“This plane was designed by inspired people. Restorers that recognize the creativity of the original builders love to work on this plane,” he says as he points out yet another Comet innovation.

Bob first volunteered on the Boeing 247D in 1986. He believes the 247D was as innovative in the 1930’s as the Comet was in the early 1950’s; one with propellers and the other with jets. One of the highlights of his MOF time was watching the restored 247D take flight.

Bobs’s interest in aircraft restoration developed late in life. In 1965, with a degree in electrical engineering, he joined the leading edge Fairchild Semiconductor Company. He managed their automotive products group exploring ways to integrate new electronic controls in the auto industry.

He did acquire a pilots license and owned a four place Navion “A” followed by an “A” Model Beech Bonanza.
His flying interest took a new course in 1986 when he toured the Restoration Center with a professional group. He was hooked. While he is the current Comet Project Manager he is quick to point out that literally hundreds of individuals have devoted time and energy to the project. In 2002 they did a tally and identified over 125 volunteers who had worked on the plane up to that time. He estimates that more than a hundred names could easily be added to the roster by now. And that doesn’t include the many supporters he has found in the United Kingdom who have helped with parts, advice and encouragement.

His leadership philosophy? Point out what needs to be done and then get out of the way.

The most frequent question he is asked? When will it be done?

The cockpit and first class sections are nearly complete. The aft cabin is coming along nicely. But much remains to be done and, he is quick to point out, new volunteers are always welcome.

When the work is done, the record will be clear that Bob Hood played a big role in its completion.

Air Force One and the Concord; A Docent Love Affair

2011-01-14T13:58:00.000-08:00

The following article by Stephen Dennis appeared in the September/October 2010 edition of Aloft, a publication of Seattle's Museum of Flight.

Rick Wheeler loves airplanes. They are in his blood. His late father flew for Hawaiian Air, one brother currently flies for them and a second brother builds planes for Boeing.

A developmental disability keeps Rick from flying planes but nothing can keep him away from them. In five years at the MOF he has amassed over 500 volunteer hours. Most of that time has been spent in the Air Park where he devotes two days a week to cleaning either Air Force One or the Concord. Rich Lynch, Air Park Lead, reports that, “Rick is hard working, reliable and very fun to work with. On Air Force One days Rick wears his Air Force One hat and conducts a pre-cleaning walk around the plane in pre-flight fashion. On Concord days he always arrives in his British Air jacket.”

One day, when the Plexiglas was removed for cockpit cleaning, Rick posed in the Air Force One pilot’s seat in a cowboy hat doing his best LBJ imitation. He is particularly proud of that photo.

It’s a 90 minute bus ride from his home to the MOF so Rick makes the most of his time upon arrival. Following his Air Park work he is often found in the control tower or the Personal Courage Wing. His current favorite in the PC Wing is the P-51 and he is saving his money to fulfill a dream in 2011; a flight in the B-17, Liberty Bell.

His volunteer work around the biplane concession has earned him several rides over Seattle and he gives each of his nieces and nephews a biplane ride upon graduation from high school. He has even done a tandem jump from a plane in Hawaii.

His plane passion continues when he is away from the MOF. He maintains a museum quality collection of aircraft and airline pins which he once displayed in the hobby area of the Puyallup Fair. He collects tail numbers in little spiral notebooks and, according to Lynch, if you want to know anything about a particular plane, just give Rick the tail number.

Rick Wheeler, with the support of his “flying family,” demonstrates there are no limits to the volunteer opportunities at the MOF.

Museum of Flight; Support for Aviation Education

2010-09-23T15:36:00.000-07:00

This article appeared in the July/August issue of "Aloft" a publication of Seattle's Museum of Flight.

The Museum of Flight is dedicated to serving learners of all ages. To maintain an “educational edge” Museum leadership depends on the thoughtful and enthusiastic input of the Educational Leaders Advisory Board or ELAB. Made up of educators, government and industry representatives, ELAB volunteers devote countless hours to the Museums educational programs and have played a valuable role in keeping the programs fresh and focused.

Michael and Jessica van Son, brother and sister, bring two very different perspectives to the ELAB and illustrate the type of talent volunteering their energy to the board.

Combining a business degree with a love of science Michael works as a metrologist with Lockheed Martin in Silverdale, Washington. In addition to his ten years on the ELAB he volunteers hundreds of hours with Kitsap County school science initiatives.

According to Seth Margolis, Director of Education Programs for the Museum, “Michael represents the aerospace/engineering industry on ELAB. He brings that big picture view point to the board. He understands how our programs intersect with the industry side of the education and guides us to consider their role in the larger field---that student experiences at the Museum are not simply static but that they lead into further discovery and inspiration to explore the STEM fields as careers.”

Jessica, a Longview area special education teacher, brings her students on an annual visit to the MOF. Four years ago she was encouraged to join the ELAB to bring her energy, interest in scientific education and understanding of special needs students to the Museum.

“As a teacher, Jessica brings a formal education perspective to ELAB,” said Margolis. “She can view our programs from the end-user side of the equation. She understand how they relate to the school system and what we need to do to ensure that they meet the scholastic needs of the audience while also being enjoyable, rigorous, and age appropriate. She allows us to hear directly from our constituents. Jessica has also been a Washington Aerospace Scholars residency program counselor for two years and thus is intimately involved in all of our programs.”

The most visible Museum volunteers are the docents who are present in the Museum everyday, interacting with visitors. The ELAB volunteers perform their service “behind-the-scenes” to insure the educational component of the Museum vision stays relevant for the regions life-long learners of all ages. Jessica and Michael are excellent examples of the quality and passion of the ELAB members.

The B-17; A Labor of Love

2010-06-23T15:52:00.000-07:00

This Volunteer Profile appeared in the May/June 2010 issue of "ALOFT," a publication of Seattle's Museum of Flight. It honors the many volunteers who have worked to restore a vintage B-17 for the Museum's collection.

Since its first flight the B-17 has been an icon on the Boeing and the Seattle area aviation scene. Even now, 75 years later, you don’t have to look far to find a Museum volunteer whose life has been touched by the big plane.

Velva Maye, for example, has been working on the restoration of the Museums B-17 since it was acquired in 1991. Why the interest?

“Because my parts are on that plane,” she replies.

In 1942, at age 18, Velva joined Boeing as a “standard parts buyer” for the B-17 program. She’s confident her nuts, bolts and rivets are holding the Museums plane together. The work was exciting for a young woman. When an “SOS,” shortage of supplies, was sent up from the shop floor Velva would, at times, end up shuttling parts from one part of the plant, where there was a surplus, to relieve the shortage. That was the start of a 40 year career with Boeing.

She and other “lady restorers,” like Jean Almeda and Linda Broyles, handled whatever assignments were sent their way; sanding, painting, record keeping, etc. Velva recalls another volunteer, Sarah McDonald, who seemed to get all the “crummy” jobs; treating metal parts in foul smelling solvents, for example. But she and the others stuck with the program.

Early in the restoration Velva had the good fortune to work with the late Roy Ostling, one of the original engineers for the B-17 program. Roy had worked on every model of the plane from the “B” through the “G” models.

“Roy knew that plane down to the smallest detail. He insured that all our work matched the original design in every respect,” said Velva.

Walter Bergstrom, a five year Docent, had a different view of the B-17; from the ball turret slung beneath the belly. Walter volunteers every Friday and enjoys telling of his wartime B-17 experiences. He particularly enjoys working with kids.

He joined his crew as a waist gunner but, since “they had trouble keeping guys in the ball turret,” he volunteered to switch. At 5’ 10” he was a bit tall for the turret but found it comfortable and the view was spectacular. As his bomb group formed up he would curl into the turret and stay there until they left the continent on the return flight; six to eight hour stays were not unusual. Once in the turret he was the pilot’s eyes below and behind the plane. With so many planes maneuvering in a small space his view was critical. It was so snug that he had to leave his parachute up in the plane.

Walter arrived in England in April, 1944, in time to give the British support during D Day. His squadron carried out attacks on Caen in advance of the British. Unfortunately for Walter, he had one more take off than landing. On his 24th mission their plane experienced a serious wing fire and struggled to make England. On final approach Walter and others in the rear decided to jump. The handle on the escape hatch caught on his cuff and stayed with him all the way down. Due to the low altitude his chute barely opened and he landed badly in a dry swampy area. Two local boys made him comfortable on the ground, stole two packs of Chesterfields, and left him for later rescue.

His early exit broke 16 bones, including his back and both legs, and started him on a yearlong rehab in the states. It also earned him a membership in the “Caterpillar Club,” sponsored by the Irving Air Chute Company and open to flyers who used their parachutes in an emergency. Walter is proud of his club membership and, despite his bail out, still swears by the B-17.

“Everyone wanted to fly the B-17. It was the best. Four years ago I got to go up again; this time in the “Aluminum Overcast” when she visited Seattle. But at 210 pounds I don’t fit in the ball turret any longer!”

Docent Ted Gary enjoyed a different view, as a tail gunner on 22 B-17 missions beginning in January of 1945. He was always looking back. Late in the war German aircraft were scarce but the flak never let up. Ted took little comfort from the fact that the canvas gunner enclosure of the “F” model had been replaced by thin aluminum on his “G.”. His kneeling position was cold and cramped and his parachute had to be kept “nearby” during the long flights.

Near the end of hostilities he flew two “chow hound” missions, dropping food from 400 feet over occupied Holland. He can still recall the sight of Dutch civilians running past silent German gun positions to recover the falling food. Since the bomb bay food release system was unreliable some of the pallets fell far from their intended targets.

“I was afraid we’d kill civilians with food canisters,” he said.

During a later vacation in Holland he was nearly smothered by a thankful Dutch woman when she learned that he’d participated in the food drop that saved many lives.

Hank Hendrickson both piloted a B-17 and, since 2004, has been active with the restoration of the Museums plane. Hank picked up a new B-17 in May of “44” in Georgia and by June was flying the first of his 30 European missions. His appreciation of the rugged plane was enhanced on a mission over Germany when flak ripped a massive hole aft of the bomb bay, killing three crew members and sending the plane into a roll. With all engines still firing he regained control and diverted to a secondary target not fully appreciating how badly damaged the plane was. After inspecting the damage they aimed for an emergency field on the English coast and, confident the stress of landing would break off the tail, he ordered the tail gunner to jump before executing a successful landing. The chilly tail gunner was recovered uninjured.

Hanks extensive combat time has made him an ideal tour guide for visitors to the Museums restored plane.

Not all of the Museums B-17 aficionados had wartime contact with the big plane. Herb Phelan, for example, didn’t make serious contact with the program until 1993, following a career in aircraft design at Boeing. Looking for a retirement activity he became hooked on the restoration project and, since 1999 has served as project manager or crew chief for the project. He recently took over the B-29 restoration as well; and all as a volunteer!

Organizing volunteers to do anything can be a challenging task but, from the results and comments of other volunteers, it is clear Herb was the right man for the job. Under his leadership the restoration volunteers strive for authenticity in their work which continues to this day. Using the original production drawings they have fabricated hundreds of parts and systems to bring the plane back to “factory” condition. When a lack of castings or tooling prevent perfect replicas they adapt to achieve the “look and function” of the original parts.

For example, with Herb’s direction, Alan Peover, another volunteer, recently installed a windshield wiper assembly for the bombardier position. Using original drawings new parts were fabricated and matched with authentic components purchased on-line to bring the installation up to factory specs.

In addition to fabrication skills Peover has found agility to be an asset as well. To install pulleys, cables and brackets for an “emergency cable release for the bomb bay doors” Peover had to remove floorboards and squeeze his body into nearly inaccessible compartments.

Peover is now fabricating ten simulated 500 pound bombs for installation in the planes empty bomb bay. Many hours will be spent fabricating fuses, fins and other components based on design drawings acquired from a source in Great Britain but, in the end, they will look like the real thing and further enhance the accuracy of the restoration.

The list of involved volunteers could go on and on; Loody Christofero and many other have invested countless hours in the B-17 program. The Museum is fortunate to have such skilled and dedicated volunteers. Future generations who want to see a truly authentic restoration will benefit from their commitment and hard work for decades to come.

Marquita Fortner; Aviation as a Family Tradition

2010-06-23T15:01:00.000-07:00

This Volunteer Profile appeared in the March/April 2010 edition of "ALOFT," a publication of Seattle's Museum of Flight.

Marquita Fortner has been described as “an accomplished young woman.” That may be an understatement. In just two years as a Docent, working Saturdays and every special event she can squeeze in, she has amassed 262 hours of volunteer time. Why?

“It’s a great place to share my love of aviation, its history, people, planes and companies,” she replies.

Aviation is in her genes. Both parents are private pilots and Marquita flew a plane before she drove a car. She is a graduate of the New Mexico Military Institute, Embry-Riddle and has a Masters degree in transportation policy from George Mason University. She is employed by a consulting firm that supports the air cargo industry and will soon receive her commission in the U. S. Navy reserve. She is a busy 27 year old!

She enjoys all her Docent time at the museum and particularly enjoys speaking with young people about opportunities in the aviation field. Two museum encounters have been particularly memorable. Working the 2009 gala she met and was photographed with her “all time favorite” astronaut, Charles Duke, the lunar module pilot on Apollo 16. (Who landed on the moon a full decade before she was born!)

On another occasion, while giving a Tip-to-Tail presentation on the F-104, she met an “F-104” pilot and his daughter. The daughter returned later to thank Marquita, indicating her presentation had caused her dad to open up about his flying experiences like never before.

“It meant a lot to me to see how the presentation helped the daughter to learn more about her father. He’d ejected from two F-104’s and ended up marrying one of the crash investigating officers. He also served as an SR-71 test pilot. What a flying career!”

Though her Naval Reserve duties will take her from the museum some weekends she still plans to stay as involved as she can. Starting so young, there is a good chance she will set new records for volunteer hours. She is off to a good start.

Cycle Idaho; The Hiawatha and Coeur d'Alene Trails

2009-10-16T11:13:00.000-07:00

Idaho offers wonderful bike trails, set in the mountains on old rail lines with only moderate grades. To read about two of the most popular, the Hiawatha and the Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes, visit Steve's Travel Journals.

But don't pack your bikes just yet. Snows have come to the high country closing the higher trails. Instead visit the site for inspiration and planning for 2010. Enjoy.

Old Seventy; Requiem for a B-17

2009-06-26T15:38:00.000-07:00

This article, based on a relative's personal notes and official records, appeared in the June 2009 edition of "Warbirds Magazine."

Over 12,000 B-17 variants were produced during World War II. Only a few, like the Memphis Belle, have left deep tracks in the sands of history allowing historians to follow their movements during their often brief life in the Army Air Corps. Of the “B” series only one, serial number 38-215, has left a significant trail.

Through letters, personal journals, after action reports and government records 38-215, later nicknamed “Old Seventy,” can be followed from her November, 1939 delivery at March Field to her fatal Aleutian crash July 18, 1942. During her life she played a number of roles: test platform for cold weather operations, patrol plane under Navy control, bomber and weather reconnaissance aircraft.

The B-17B series was born in the middle of the depression when the Army had to beg for each development dollar from a reluctant Congress. A direct descendant of the model 299, launched in 1935 and the 13 YB-17s, ordered for testing in 1936, the “B” series included a number of design upgrades including superchargers, a larger tail, new nose, hydraulic brakes and revised gun and bombardier positions. It is arguably the first “production” version of the B-17 and the first assigned to active bombardment groups; one on the Atlantic coast and one on the Pacific side. Only 39 B-17Bs were built and none survived the war yet they made a valuable contributions to the further development of the “C,” “D” and ultimately the first model worthy of the “Fortress” moniker, the “E” series.

Old Seventy spent the first months of her career in California, between March Field and the Sacramento Air Depot. In early 1940 orders were issued for the transfer of Old Seventy and her sister ship, 38-216, to the new Army Cold Weather Test Detachment at Ladd Field (now Fort Wainright), then under construction near Fairbanks, Alaska. The detachment would be charged with testing aircraft, equipment, maintenance procedures and other Army gear in the frigid northland. While bush and commercial pilots had been developing skills for Arctic flight operations, the Army lacked cold weather experience.

Old Seventy, 38-216 and the Cold Weather Test Detachment (CWTD) would provide that knowledge.

On April 14, 1940 Major Dale Gaffney, Lt. Marvin Walseth and 16 others were detached to Ladd to pave the way for aircraft and technicians to follow. They arrived to find a field under construction so set up their first operations in nearby Fairbanks.

At March Field technicians went to work on the two Alaska bound B-17Bs to prepare them for their Arctic assignment. Guns and bomb racks were removed, replaced with test equipment. Day-glow orange was applied to the wing tips and tails of the silver birds and a new symbol, a bomb carrying polar bear, was applied to each fuselage. Old Seventy received a large “1” on the fuselage and smaller one on the tail. 38-216 received a similar “2.”

On October 4, 1940 the two planes departed March Field carrying six officers and eighteen men. Arriving at Ladd bundled in heavy parkas they were surprised by the moderate fall weather and the lack of snow. They would soon learn why Fairbanks was selected as the cold weather test site.

Anchorage based General Simon Buckner, newly assigned Commander of the Alaska Defense Forces, favored the big plane for his frequent aerial tours and soon the planes were making appearances at remote fields all over the territory. While single engine bush planes were common, the big bombers were a novelty in the north. They were so noteworthy that on several occasions in October and November the Anchorage newspaper reported on the arrivals and departures of the planes. In one case they noted it “stayed on the ground for 15 minutes.”

In addition to testing work Old Seventy made frequent trips to Alaska’s interior, inventorying available landing sites for use in flying emergencies and in time of war. At then end of November Lt. Walseth, Gaffney’s adjutant, flew to Fort Yukon and then out over the Arctic Ocean. On December 1st he was off to Nome to pick up fur parkas and mucklucks locals were making for the Army. In a letter home he reported…“believe me, it was a great treat for all the people over there and for all of us as the field was rolly and not a foot too long. We just got in and off.”

The winter testing had fallen into a routine when tragedy stuck the small Ladd flying community. In early February Captain R. S. Freeman flew 38-216 to the Sacramento Air Depot with reports concerning the winter flight operations at Ladd. On February 6th, enroute from Sacramento to Wright Field, the plane crashed into a Nevada mountain killing all aboard. Old Seventy was now the only four engine bomber operating in the Alaska Territory.

Later that month Lt. Walseth filed a report of the first year’s activities of the Ladd CWTD. He reported that Old Seventy had flown over 324 hours in just six months at temperatures ranging from -47 degrees to +50 degrees F. During that time a number of changes had been made to the aircraft including the installation of:
· 1000 watt engine oil immersion heaters.
· A B-17C style cabin heating system with boiler units on two engines. (First orders for the “C” series planes had been placed in July of 1940)
· Six outlets for heated flying suits.
· 100 amp, type E-85, generators replacing the 50 amp models.
· Defroster for bombardier’s aiming window.

He also reported on the testing of electric flying suits from General Electric and United States Rubber. Flight crews had found them wanting for Arctic use. One had caught fire. All had cold spots and failed to maintain temperature when the generators were not producing while idling on the ground. Worse “…if a man had to leave his ship…a man with good emergency equipment and good non-heated flying clothing would have a chance of surviving….A man in … electrically

heated outfits would be helpless….”

On April 30th Ladd nearly lost its remaining B-17B. As Walseth reported after a night flight, “Almost had to leave it [the plane] as the propeller governor broke and the engine ran away. Tore itself all to pieces, cylinder broke off, etc. In fact almost completely demolished. That is about the worst experience I have had.”

Grounded until a new engine could be shipped to Ladd her next trip didn’t occur until the end of May when Old Seventy flew at 15,000 feet non-stop to Sacramento making the 2400 mile flight in eleven hours. At Sacramento she received a complete overhaul and some features from the “C” series were added. The most visible change was the replacement of the “tear drop” gun blisters on the waist with flush mounted openings that produced less drag and gave better gun angles.

After nearly a month on the ground Walseth completed Old Seventy’s trip to the lower ’48 via San Antonio, Maxwell Field and Wright Field in Dayton. In July she returned to Ladd to enjoy the last months of peace on the northern frontier.

When war was thrust upon the United States, December 7th, 1941, Old Seventy was one of the few more modern aircraft available in the Alaska territory. But since the CWTD reported directly to Wright Field, General Buckner didn’t even include it in his aircraft count. On January 3, 1942 Buckner advised Army Headquarters that “There is not at the present time a single up-to-date fighting plane in the Alaska Defense Command.” The best he could muster were “seven obsolescent medium bombing planes [B-18s] and sixteen equally outmoded pursuit planes. [P-36s]”

As 1942 progressed the Anchorage based 36th Bombardment Squadron began cobbling together a fighting force. Old Seventy was transferred to the 36th. In March a single B-17E arrived from Wright Field followed in May by three LB-30s, an export version of the B-24. All but Old Seventy had rudimentary radar. This was the air fleet ordered to the NW Sea Frontier Command at the Kodiak Navy Base in late May. The same intelligence intercepts that set up the Midway battle included warnings of a Japanese attack on Alaska. The question was, where would it occur?

Old Seventy arrived at Kodiak with Lieutenants Jack Marks and Richard Ragle at the controls. The crew was given a top secret briefing and informed they were to be assigned to Navy Patrol Wing 4 and operate from to a new, secret base on Umnak Island in the Aleutian chain. But their mission had been so secret that they’d departed Ladd with a sick engine and without bombsight, bomb shackles, guns, ammunition and other essential fighting gear. Before she could go to war she had to be converted from a test platform to a fighting ship.

She returned to Ladd on May 26th and, with ground crews working 24 hours a day, finally arrived at Umnak on June 2, ready to join the fight.

For the next six weeks Old Seventy would be in almost constant motion. The day they arrived at Umnak they were fueled, armed and, at 1800, sent on patrol looking for the Japanese fleet. Aleutian weather, which haunted most flights, forced her to fly under the 400 foot cloud ceiling. Returning at 0530, the third, they learned of the Dutch Harbor attack, refueled and took off again.

With Marks and Ragle at the controls they ran into Japanese planes returning from Dutch Harbor and the waist gunner, Sgt. K. E. Nelson, claimed a kill. He also put 50 holes in the tail of Old Seventy! Flying beneath the 250 foot ceiling they followed the retreating enemy planes and came upon what they believed was the entire Japanese fleet. They dropped their bombs under heavy clouds and returned to base.

The next few days Old Seventy was in the air more than on the ground chasing phantom fleets over the unforgiving waters. At one point she nearly attacked an island rising from the foggy mists.

On June 4th she lost her bomb bay doors when her bombs released following a violent maneuver to avoid a cloud shrouded mountain side. Later they were forced to shut down number two engine when the cowling worked loose and nearly caught the propeller. While flying at reduced speed they were jumped by Japanese planes. Only the dense cloud cover allowed them to avert disaster.

By the 6th of June the constant flying was taking a toll on her. After an early morning patrol, departing at 0435, followed by a mid-day patrol, departing at 1150, she was serviced and in the air again at 1545. Shortly after takeoff one engine failed. She turned toward Anchorage on three engines with two generators out, severe icing and two superchargers acting erratically. More generator problems finally forced Old Seventy down at the small village of Naknek at 2320.
They made emergency repairs and returned to the fight only to be disabled on the 7th by a faulty fuel transfer pump, disabled during an earlier encounter with a Japanese fighter.

On the 9th she was assigned on a bombing run to Kiska, where the Japanese were establishing a base. Old Seventy’s problems began to mount. She was too old and slow to keep up with the B-24s that were arriving to expand the strike force. Only by pushing her to the limit could she keep up with the newer, faster, planes. She made the trip on the 9th but, on the 10th, number two engine failed and she had to abort. A ground check revealed that two cylinders lacked compression. She needed a new engine and the nearest spare was at Ladd.

She returned from Ladd sporting new Army green livery, replacing the international orange paint job from her testing days. Since she was not in the same league as the newer bombers she was given a new and important solo role, weather reconnaissance and redesignated YB-17B. Weather was a nightmare in the Aleutians; low ceiling, fog, high winds. Worse, storms came from the west so flights taking off from Umnak had no idea what they would encounter on their 600 mile flight to Kiska. Old Seventy’s new job was to serve as lead scout feeding weather information back to base operations.

Former Lieutenant Walseth, now Major, took over Old Seventy in July. The pace for both aircraft and crews remained grueling. In a letter to his family Walseth reported that, “Most of our flights run around ten hours. Sometimes two or three in succession but when possible every other day. After three successive flights it takes about a week to recover, which none of us get. So we are generally quite worn down. The war we are fighting up here is a long slow process as everything depends on the weather. All the fronts move toward us so the [Japanese] sort of have an edge on us as they know what’s coming and we don’t.”

And the grind continued. Out shown by the newer, faster models, Old Seventy continued to contribute to the fight in her own, independent way. Finally, on July 18 she failed to return from a solo photo reconnaissance mission. The old lady was gone.

The diary of Lt. Billy Wheeler, of the 36th Bombardment Squadron, describes what happened. “The weather at Umnak [on the 18th] was bad as usual. The visibility was as low as 100 feet and a sea fog surrounded the island during the greater part of the day. Several days after the report of the loss, Major Walseth’s ship was found on Cape Udak, the Southwest end of Umnak Island…[The crew was] buried near the Nikolski village, a short distance from the crash scene. These were the only burials in the squadron, bodies are rarely found in our job. It was assumed that Walseth had made a landfall on Umnak and had endeavored to follow the coastline to the field. An unexpected land projection caught him. He crashed only twenty feet from the top.”

Old Seventy’s contribution to the war effort ended 32 months after it began in the California sunshine. Piloted by a succession of young men she provided valuable lessons concerning the operation of aircraft in cold climates. The groundwork she and her crew laid made life easier for those who followed and helped insure the other 12,000 B-17 aircraft truly performed like “Flying Fortresses.”

Origin of the Name “Old Seventy”

The origin of the name “Old Seventy” remains a mystery.

Major Walseth, the pilot on its ill fated last mission, never refers to the name in his correspondence. He flew the plane extensively from its arrival in Alaska in October of 1940 until the Pearl Harbor attack. In early 1942, with many pilots and only one plane, other pilots were often at her controls. In May of 1942 Captain Marks flew her on her first combat missions with Lt Ragle as co-pilot. Both Marks and Ragle refer to her as Old Seventy as do authors who wrote extensively about the Aleutian campaign.

Ragle, who survived the war, suggested that the name may have come from a radio call sign given her by the Navy during her brief stint as a Navy patrol plane in late May and early June of 1942. Even he couldn’t recall specific details.

But the name stuck. And Old Seventy, the only “B” series bomber to see extensive combat action following Pearl Harbor, will live on in history with that moniker.

Where Are They Now?

Major, later General, Gaffney remained in Alaska and took over responsibility for the Ferry Command which managed the Lend Lease program that was ferrying planes to Fairbanks where they were turned over to our Russian allies.
Lieutenant, later Captain, Ragle returned to Ladd Field and played a major role in the Ferry Command under Gaffney.
Both Gaffney and Ragle survived the war.
Lieutenant Wheeler, who left behind an extensive diary of the 36th Bombardment Sq. activities, survived the Aleutian campaign and returned to Seattle with the remnants of the Squadron after it was disbanded following victory in the Aleutians. The author has no record of his other war time activities.
Major Marks and his crew perished in a B-17E shot down on a July 17 raid over Kiska.
Major Walseth and his crew perished on a remote corner of Umnak Island the next day.
General Buckner went on to lead the 10th Army on Okinawa where he was killed in action.

Make Retirement Work; Your New Journey Requires a Two-way Street

2009-04-02T10:49:00.000-07:00

Planning for retirement? This article explores the non-financial side of that planning. A previously published version was posted on this site in July of 2008. The Seattle PI newspaper saw the piece and requested an update for publication in their Life and Arts section on March 9th of 2009.

A copy of the article can be seen by clicking on Seattle PI.

I regret to report that the PI, as it was called in Seattle, ceased publishing a print edition a few days after this article appeared. The print version will be missed but the on-line version carries on.

Developers Have a Song For Government These Days

2009-02-08T13:58:00.000-08:00

This article appeared as a guest editorial in the "Puget Sound Business Journal" on January 30th, 2009. As a former home builder Steve couldn't resist taking a poke at a few Seattle area planners.

“How do you like me now?”

So goes the chorus of an old country song, a chorus area home builders could be singing at regional city and county council meetings if they were so inclined.

In good economic times home builders are a cash cow for local governments. Development, impact and permit fees are piled on with wild abandon and wheelbarrow loads of building material sales tax flows in to government coffers.

Ironically, at the same time homebuilders are routinely vilified as despoilers of the landscape; the chief cause of traffic congestion and crowed schools.

Well, now that the fee flow has disappeared, how do local governments like homebuilders now? When times are good home builders are a convenient source of cash. While this isn’t Chicago’s “pay to play” approach to doing business the results are similar. Home builders write big checks for the right to build homes that the region needs. The costs get passed on to consumers, housing prices rise, affordability becomes a dream and governments officials wring their hands about the high cost of housing.

But that reliable source of government revenue has dried up giving officials even more cause for hand wringing.Consider some of the “voluntary” contributions that have now diappeared, in light of the housing slump.
· Sales tax on building materials.
· Impact fees for schools, roads and parks.
· Utility connection fees.
· Building permits fees.

The sad truth is that many of these charges far exceeded the actual cost of providing services to the new home communities. So when the permit applications disappeared the county and city costs did not. Thus the squeeze on government budgets.

So, how do they like the homebuilders now?

With apparent disregard for the sad state of the housing market and in spite of the shortage of affordable housing, agencies have not slowed their efforts to further raise the cost housing, once someone decides to build one.
· One Snoqualmie Valley school district just doubled their impact fee per home to $10,000.
· Regional fire marshals are pushing a plan to require fire sprinklers in all new homes at over $10,000 per home.
· Many communities are enamored with Low Impact Development (LID) a green and more expensive approach to community development. While some elements have merit the economics are being swept under rug as communities vie for the right to say, “my community is greener than your community.”
· King County is toying with requiring a “Carbon Impact Analysis” for new development. Read another way it means more delay, more studies and more cost.

This list could go on. It appears that the planners, freed from the burden of processing permits, are now devoting their efforts to the hot planning idea de jour. And when the housing market returns, and it will return, it will be accompanied by the usual municipal hand wringing about the lack of affordable housing. An optimist might hope that governments would show more respect for an industry that does so much to fill their tax coffers in good times while providing the basic housing for their citizens.

In the meantime regional homebuilders can gain some satisfaction, while dusting their unsold homes, by humming Toby Keith’s, “How Do You Like Me Now?”

A War of Words; The U S Army vs. the Alaska Game Commission

2009-01-18T14:16:00.000-08:00

by Stephen Dennis, For the Fairbanks News-Miner
Published Sunday, January 18, 2009

The big war came to Alaska on December 7, 1941, Pearl Harbor Day. But a much smaller Alaska conflict actually began five months earlier. This little known war, over the issuance of hunting licenses, was fought with bombast, not bombs, and words, not bullets. It was a war between the U. S. Army and the Alaska Game Commission and, given the passion and rhetoric displayed, it is hard to believe they worked for the same government!

Like many wars, this one started innocently enough when Withers Tolbert of the 4th Infantry Division at Ladd Field (now Fort Wainwright) was denied a resident hunting license in July of 1941. At the time the fee for a resident license was one dollar per year compared to fifty dollars for a non-resident license. With starting pay in the Army a meager $21 per month, the denial of access to a resident license was tantamount to denying the young soldiers the right to hunt at all.

Despite Tolbert’s pleas for reconsideration the rock solid bureaucrats at the Alaska Game Commission, a Federal agency, would not budge. He was a soldier. He was different. To receive a resident license a civilian simply had to declare that Alaska was his home and that he had been in the Territory for one year. However, since all servicemen were from somewhere else, in Alaska by order of the Army, they were not eligible to claim residency regardless of how long they had been in the Territory.

The license skirmish might have ended there had it not caught the attention of Lt. Marvin Walseth, the Adjutant at Ladd Field. A Minnesota hunter himself, he viewed the Commission’s actions as an affront to the U. S. Army and the hundreds of servicemen that were pouring into the Territory in those days. He decided to launch a frontal assault. On July 23rd he applied for a resident license at the Fairbanks office of the Commission pointing out, in writing, that he had been in Alaska for over a year, he owned land and he planned to make Alaska his home. It seemed like an open shut case. It wasn’t.

He was refused a license and the war of words began. It is unclear who said what to whom during the following two weeks but on August 4th, in his role as Adjutant, Walseth advised the Commission’s Fairbanks office that Lt. Col Dale Gaffney, Ladd Field’s Commanding Officer, was banning all Commission personnel from Ladd. Existing gate passes were to be returned and, in the future, game agents could only visit Ladd Field with special permission and under escort. The action was taken “…Because personnel of the Alaska Game Commission have made erroneous statements that are not conducive of goodwill to the Military Forces…”

This action must have been awkward for Walseth since one of the Fairbanks game agents, Sam White, was personnel friend. White had dined with the Walseth’s on several occasions and sent them a book on Alaska as a wedding present. White and Walseth had also flown together on trips to the back country. But for now White and his associates were banned from the Field.

The word battle in Fairbanks must have made waves in the system because the Commission soon rolled out their big gun from Juneau in the form of Frank Dufresne, the head of the Commission. Dufresne turned out to be their secret weapon. He was a bureaucrat among bureaucrats. Never giving an inch of ground he could write the kindest letters expression sympathy over the plight of the soldiers who wanted to hunt and then, in the end, blame Congress who made the rules. His job was simply to enforce them. He claimed he wanted to help but his hands were tied.

As to Walseth’s apparently foolproof application, it was reviewed by Dufresne and denied again on August 20th. Dufresne claimed that living at Ladd Field was different from living in Alaska for residency purposes and referred Walseth to a copy of the Alaska Game Law, which was written by Congress in far off Washington D. C.

Both sides now resorted to a war of attrition, hoping to wear the other side down. Letters and radiograms were tossed back and forth, between Juneau and Fairbanks, like live grenades. Dufresne would explain why no variance from the rules was ever permitted. Then Walseth would provide him with examples of exceptions that had been made by Dufresne’s agents. For example, Walseth named three members of the Signal Corp who had been granted resident licenses though no more qualified than Walseth and Tolbert. Why, he asked, were these touted rules not being applied uniformly? Further, why could any civilian just walk into a Commission office, claim his was a resident and walk out with a license with few questions asked? Were there different rules for civilians, Signal Corp personnel and the rest of the Army?

Dufresne was a master of doublespeak and, for each rule exception Walseth cited, he had an explanation for the apparent inconsistencies. Reading the correspondence today one can understand Walseth’s frustration. Dufresne’s rationalizations were weak and inconsistent but he would not budge from his prepared position. In this war of words it was clear that the Commission was well supplied. With hunting season approaching, Walseth needed to try a new approach, his wife.

Walseth knew that a number of Signal Corp spouses had received resident licenses. The Commission claim that Army personnel were different from others in Alaska would not stand up with her. She was clearly a civilian. So Phyllis Walseth applied for her first hunting license. A day later her application was denied and her dollar returned. It was time for another radiogram.
On August 30th Walseth launched a searing radiogram missile at Dufresne citing several Signal Corp wives, similar to his own, who had received resident licenses. Walseth felt this license denial and the Commission’s regular shoddy treatment of Army personnel was reprehensible. He closed the message with “…It may appear that I seem provoked concerning this. If so, that is quite right. For your information court proceedings have been started and though it may take some time, it is now up to the court to make final settlement.”

Since the Fairbanks office of the Game Commission had escalated the fight by pushing the matter to their Juneau headquarters, in the form of Frank Dufresne, it was time for the U. S. Army to do the same. Walseth turned to the head of the Alaska Defense Forces, General Simon Bolivar Buckner, Jr.

Under normal circumstances a lowly First Lieutenant in Fairbanks would not be on speaking terms with a General Officer in Anchorage. But during the 1940 defense build-up in Alaska nothing was quite normal. Walseth had met with Buckner on many occasions when the General visited Ladd Field and had served as his pilot on several trips to the interior. During one of the General’s visits to Ladd the lieutenant surprised his young wife by bringing Buckner home for dinner.

Walseth and Gaffney, the Ladd Field commander, contacted the General and received an enthusiastic response. Buckner commanded a growing corps of low paid troops who would be living in a high cost Territory. Hunting would be an activity they could afford which would boost morale and keep them out of trouble. Additionally he no doubt saw the inherent inequity in the contradictory treatment of civilians, Signal Corp and Army personnel.

On September 19th Buckner made application for a resident license before Game Commission representative, Jack O’Connor. He attested to the fact that he had resided in Alaska for one year, that he was domiciled there, voted there and intended to stay there. O’Connor refused to issue the license.

Buckner then turned to Federal District Court in Anchorage. O’Connor and the Game Commission were named in a suit. The general sought an order from the court directing O’Connor to issue the license. At that point a game of cat and mouse ensued. When Buckner’s attorney sought to serve O’Connor with the suit he was nowhere to be found. Where he disappeared to was a mystery likely encouraged by Dufresne at headquarters.

At first the Commission simply ignored the proceedings as if Federal Courts didn’t matter to them. Upon hearing the case the judge concluded the license should be issued and called for a second hearing. Concerned over the direction the case was going the Commission finally came forward to denounce the entire proceeding and claim the court did not have jurisdiction over the matter in the first place.

On October 2nd the court reconvened and ruled on all the matters. First, it did have jurisdiction. That dealt with the Commission’s argument. Second, should Buckner receive a license? The answer was a resounding yes. The court found that if an applicant met the requirements of the law, including the residency test, the Commission staff had no right to use discretion to treat some applicants differently from others. That was the very point that Walseth had been arguing for weeks. It appeared that a clear cut victory for the Army was at hand. It was not to be so.

O’Connor refused to appear in his office so Buckner could apply for a license. A U. S. Marshal was dispatched to find him and bring him in. When the errant O’Connor was brought in Buckner presented him with a completed license application and the one dollar fee. O’Connor again refused to issue the license. He then left the office. Court was reconvened and the judge issued an order finding the game commission employee in contempt of court. Once again the Marshal was called, this time to arrest O’Connor. An hour later everyone but O’Connor was back in court. The empty handed marshal explained that his quarry had escaped by going to Fort Richardson where the marshal had no jurisdiction to make an arrest. Essentially a government employee had escaped apprehension by another government employee by escaping to a government reservation!

Undeterred the judge ordered the clerk of the court to issue the hunting license to Buckner in O’Connor’s name. O’Connor would be dealt with at a later time.

Any celebration of victory by Army personnel was short lived. Dufresne would have nothing to do with the judges ruling. His position was made clear in a front page article in the October 7th, 1941 Fairbanks Daily News-Miner. First, the Commission had no objection to Buckner’s license; they just did not recognize it as valid and planned to appeal the ruling. Second, the ruling only applied to Buckner, not to any other Army personnel. The Commission would not issue licenses to other soldiers. Finally, showing what a kind hearted bureaucrat he was, Dufresne said he would continue his efforts to change the law. In the meantime Buckner could hunt alone.
As the article further pointed out,…”[we know how Dufresne] feels about $1 game-shooting privileges for members of the agency assigned by the government to protect the Territory’s soil and human population…”

An editorial in the November 1941 Alaska Sportsman expressed sympathy for the soldier’s plight. “It is manifestly unfair, however, to deny a soldier who gives his time to the service of his country, the rights, such as that of hunting, which other citizens enjoy, when he has complied with the same requirements as the civilian.”

So who won the battle for the license? In the short run you would have to say that the bureaucrats beat the Army. In the sometimes virulent war of words the veteran Dufresne had a clear advantage over young Lt. Walseth. Sitting behind his volumes of regulations with years of double talk experience he was a formidable opponent.

More important matters would soon consume the military in the Territory and passion for the hunting license dispute would wane. Just two months after the judge issued his ruling Alaska changed forever with the bombing of Pearl Harbor.

The participants in the license battle moved on. General Buckner went on to distinguish himself in the defense of Alaska but later lost his life in the 1945 battle for Okinawa. In July of 1942 Lieutenant, then Major, Walseth lost his life when his B-17 crashed in the Aleutians returning from a flight over Japanese held Kiska. Gaffney stayed in Alaska and played a significant role in the management of the Northwest Staging Route which transited warplanes from the lower 48 through Ladd Field for delivery to our Russian allies. Bureaucratic history has consumed the stories of the Game Commission participants.

In the many years that have passed the military has continued to play a significant role in Alaska. Today members of the armed forces are afforded the same hunting privileges as civilians, Walseth’s goal in the first place. State officials are clearly kinder to the military than the 1941 Federal employees of the Game Commission. So, in the end, perhaps the efforts of those license warriors in 1941 were not in vain.

Aerial Hunting of Wolves is Nothing New in Alaska

2008-12-14T21:28:00.000-08:00

Aerial hunting of wolves is nothing new in Alaska
By Stephen Dennis, For the Fairbanks News-Miner
Published Sunday, December 14, 2008

FAIRBANKS — "I have been wondering whether wolves can be killed in mentionable numbers by ground strafing with regular Army equipment and, if this can be done, whether you will consider having some of your fliers attempt it when conditions are right.”

Crazy idea? Not when J. Sidney Rood, the General Reindeer Supervisor for Alaska suggested it in January 1941 to Major Dale Gaffney, the Commanding Officer of Ladd Field (now Fort Wainwright) in Fairbanks. In his Department of the Interior post in Nome, Rood was frustrated by the dramatic decline in the Alaska reindeer population during the 1930’s and placed much of the blame for that decline on marauding wolf packs. The wolves “have killed at least 200,000 reindeer since 1934,” Rood advised Gaffney. Something had to be done and aerial strafing seemed to be an innovative approach.

According to Department of Interior reports, wolves had been reported on the reindeer ranges since reindeer were introduced to Alaska in 1892. Single wolves or a single family occasionally would be spotted but the threat was not viewed as serious.

But Alaska reindeer populations began serious decline during the 1930’s. Alarm spread slowly at first. Government reindeer managers either didn’t notice the decline or assumed it was only a temporary situation. In May of 1933 the superintendent for the Northwestern District of the Reindeer Service wired his boss indicating that the Barrow area was facing a serious invasion by wolves. He noted that over 100 “deer” had been killed. In 1934 the Kuskokwim Unit Manager requested permission to use poison to stem the growing wolf threat. Shaktoolik, Point Hope and Newhalen stations all reported heavy losses to wolves during 1934.

By 1935 reindeer stations across Alaska were sounding the alarm. Plans were proposed to bring in professional hunters and trappers to stem the wolf tide and to educate the native population on herd management. But depression era belt tightening limited the resources available to fund extensive work.

While there may have been other factors at work in the decline of the reindeer population, attention focused on the wolf. Reindeer populations were declining and, so it seemed, the wolf populations were increasing. Logic suggested a connection between the two. The wolves had to go.

The reindeer decline wasn’t imagined. It was real. In 1969, Dean Olson, writing on the history of Alaska reindeer for the University of Alaska, Fairbanks noted that the reindeer population in Alaska declined from about 640,000 in 1932 to only 250,000 in 1940. Superintendent Rood had reason for concern.

Reindeer were important to Alaska in 1941. By Rood’s estimate, over 10,000 people, mostly natives, depended on reindeer for all or part of their food. In addition, cold weather clothing from reindeer hides was important to both the native population and to the US Army. The Army, in anticipation of a growing presence in the north, was contracting with natives for the manufacture of cold weather clothing for their troops. Rood estimated that over 34,000 reindeer hides would be required annually for clothing purposes.

“The Army has preferred reindeer parkas, because reindeer fawn skins are the warmest of light skins,” according to Rood.

If wolves were indeed the problem, why resort to air power to control them? Because, Rood reported, nothing else seemed to work. Poison was not an option. It posed risks for fox and other animals, valued by the natives. In any case, it was prohibited by the Territorial Law.

Trapping had been tried with little success. First, the natives didn’t have experience trapping wolves. Second, it was a difficult proposition in the best of circumstances. The “Newhouse No. 114 traps” were heavy and unsuited to sled travel prompting complaints by the natives. The wolves did not tend to follow trails in the wide open country so trap placement was problematical and drifting snow buried the traps. There were no trees to tie the traps to and the natives apparently lacked the patience to melt snow in sub zero conditions to anchor the traps.
While the Territory was offering a $20 wolf bounty few trappers were taking advantage of the program.

Hunting was a challenge any time. With the herd covering a range almost as large as the state of California, tracking was difficult. Roads were scarce for summer travel and winter hunting was limited by the absence of daylight and the wide open spaces.

Additionally Rood didn’t think “the guns of the Natives (in the .30-.30 lever action, open-sight class) [were] of the best type and condition for open-country wolf shooting.”

Hunting from the air, however, could overcome many of the problems. Large distances could be covered rapidly and different weapons could be used. Fighter planes, or pursuit planes as they were called in 1941, could tilt the balance against the wolves.

To prove the feasibility of aerial hunting Rood told Gaffney about his own wolf hunting experience during the spring of 1940. Flying from Kotzebue to Selawik at 1500 feet in a Stinson they spotted two wolves, contrasted clearly against the snowy backdrop. They proceeded to Selawik and switched to a Curtis Robin, feeling the slower “Robin” presented a superior shooting platform. They retraced their flight pattern and relocated the wolves. According to Rood, they descended from 1500 feet and slowed to about 75 miles per hour. Closing on the wolves they killed them with buckshot from a 12 gauge shotgun.
“Of course, I imagine it is one thing to hunt wolves from a fairly slow ship, using buckshot, but quite a different thing to use a hot pursuit ship employing machine guns, and success with the latter equipment may not be possible,” Rood advised Gaffney.

Rood had done his homework. He believed he had demonstrated that the wolves were an issue. He had shown how they could be tracked and killed from the air. Using the Army Air Corps “hot pursuit ships” as wolf hunters seemed like a good idea. The army needed practice with ground targets and the wolves needed to be controlled.

How did the Army respond? Rood’s letter made it to the desk of the Post Adjutant, Lt Walseth. There is no record of a response.

We do know the Army Air Corp in Fairbanks at the time was ill equipped to fight anything. Set up as a cold weather test facility their fleet consisted of two early model B-17 bombers, used as test platforms, several observation aircraft and a few Curtis P-37 pursuit or fighter planes.

The P-37 was a stretched out version of an older Curtis model, the P-36. To fit a new more powerful engine, the old P-36 design was stretched and the cockpit was pushed back. From the new cockpit position the pilots had a difficult time seeing well enough to land and take off, let alone hunt wolves. The planes were more of a risk to the pilots than the wolves. Only 13 of the planes were accepted by the Army before the aircraft order was cancelled. Most of the poorly designed planes made it to Alaska.

If the Army took a few shots at the wolves, they didn’t report it. It is more likely that, by the time the request made its way through “channels” Pearl Harbor had been attacked and Alaska was at war.

How about the Alaska wolf problem? Over 60 years later the debate continues. Game populations rise and fall and the wolf often gets the blame. The Alaska fish and game board continues to strive for a balance between predator and prey and the advocacy groups supporting each.

As for shooting wolves from the air; the debate continues. But don’t expect the Army or the Air Force to be called in anytime soon.

Stephen Dennis, a Seattle-based writer, has made extensive use of
personal and official records, left by the Maj. Marvin Walseth, to develop profiles and explore stories of the early flying days at Ladd Field (now Ft Wainwright.) Examples of his work are available at freelancesteve.blogspot.com.

Click Here to Link to the orginal article in the News-Miner.

Understanding Alaska to Understand Palin

2008-09-22T20:15:00.000-07:00

On Sunday, September 21, the following appeared in the Seattle PI newspaper as a guest column. It was intended as a neutral piece addressing how those in Alaska might view the world differently from those residing in the lower 48 states. It inspired considerable on-line reaction from some who viewed it as partisan, either way. Here it is, as it appeared in that paper.

Sarah Palin's ascent to the national stage has political pundits scrambling. Who is she? What does she believe? Is she for real? While her record in public office will provide breadcrumbs for the investigative tracker, a look at Alaska and its people might contribute to an understanding of the woman. Since she has lived in Alaska nearly her entire life, the essence of the place is a part of her being.

Alaska and its people are different. Visitors may not sense the difference unless they move away from their hotels, cruise ship terminals or the airport. But if they reach out, wander the state and engage its people they will sense the differences.

First of all, it's a big place. So is Texas. But Alaska is 2 1/2 times larger. It's twice the size of the original 13 colonies combined. That wide-open space is a factor in how Alaskans view their home.

In other ways it's small. In population it ranks 47th; only three states have fewer residents. And they tend to live in small communities. Only three cities have a population of more than 10,000 and only Anchorage exceeds 100,000. Wasilla, Palin's hometown, is typical at 9,800 (not counting the newly arrived reporters.) Some argue that small towns in Alaska or any other state tend to foster a closeness not found in big city environments.

Alaska is remote from the lower 48 states and, with its great expanses of open space, its small towns are often remote from one another. Many can only be reached by sea or air.

To many on the "outside" Alaska is a land of myths perpetuated by history, television and misinformed writers.

Myth: Alaskans are hardy independent types who don't much care for outsiders.
Reality: There is a frontier independent streak evident with many locals. But they are the friendliest people I've ever met, even when you are clearly an out-of-state tourist. They are courteous drivers. They yield to pedestrians. They stop to help if you appear to have car trouble.

Myth: All the men in Alaska wear wool plaid shirts and drive rusty pickup trucks.
Reality: As for the wool plaid shirts, not so much. Most Alaska residents would not stand out at a Minnesota mall. But it does rain and snow at times and they dress for it.
Old TV shows, such as "Northern Exposure" and "Men in Trees" (neither of which were filmed in Alaska), helped form the image of the rusty Alaska pickup truck. Well, it's not true. There are certainly old trucks around. But the parking lot at the local Safeway displays a robust mix of vehicles. In an informal survey, taken on the road to Homer (population 5,400), only 22 percent of the vehicles were pickup trucks. And most were free of rust or duct tape repairs. Perhaps some were left at home because of gas prices but still, real Alaskans don't all drive trucks.

Myth: It rains or snows all the time.
Reality: It rains and snows some of the time. I suspect that a local will tell you it is what it is. Oh, they appreciate a sunny warm day and, in the summer, they get long, long sunny days. If the weather turns cold or damp, life goes on. I've watched pub patrons enjoying their beverages on the outside deck in parkas, hats and gloves because the rain had stopped and the sun was out. I watched a tai chi class on wet grass enjoying the sun and ignoring the 50-degree temperature. I've watched fishermen crowding a riverbank in their rain gear trying to coax salmon from the waters. I've seen campers parked side by side on the frozen Chena River awaiting the return of mushers during a winter dog sled race.

The residents take the weather they are given, dress for it and live their life without whining.

Myth: They drink black coffee from crockery mugs.
Reality: Some do, but they like good coffee like everyone else. Espresso stands abound; drive-through, walk-up and walk-in stands appear in towns, large and small. I saw three drive-in stands in a four-block area of remote Soldotna, a fishing town on the Kenai Peninsula. And the names reflect the state: The Coffee Boat (housed in an old fishing boat), Latte Landing (on a lake shore) and the Reel Cup (in a fishing resort.)

Myth: They don't respect the environment. They kill their wildlife, dislike wolves and support drilling for oil in ANWR.
Reality: They love and respect their environment, but not in a way easily understood by "outsiders."

They love their wildlife. They love to watch it and they love to eat some of it. By and large they are not looking for trophies to hang on a wall. They are looking for meat for the freezer. Many are subsistence hunters. For them hunting is key to eating. Others are sport hunters. They enjoy hunting but wouldn't starve if they had a bad year. But few are killing for the sake of killing. Hunting is a tradition; a fall ritual passed down through generations.

The governor hunts. That fact does not turn Alaskan heads. Lots of people hunt in Alaska because there is lots of game to hunt in Alaska. It is not conducted like a Wild West buffalo hunt. The state values the resource and manages the hunt. Bottom line, hunting is no big deal in Alaska.

As for wolf hunting, an activity Palin's state administration supports, opinions vary. In Anchorage, the largest city, you will find more support for wolves and less support for hunting most anything. But the typical small town sees wolves as an overprotected predator that threatens the rest of Alaska's wildlife heritage. In the lower 48, Palin's views on wolf hunting might be viewed as extreme. Not so in her home state.

Then there is the question of drilling for oil in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. The Alaska argument, not supported by all residents, might go like this:
First, we need the energy resource. It's there; drill now.
Second, it's good for the economy. Locals enjoy the lowest per capita taxes in the nation because of the taxes generated by the existing energy operations.
Third, it's safe. The existing pipeline has been operating for decades with little environmental impact. Drilling for and transporting oil can be done safely. The Exxon Valdez was an anomaly (they might not use that word). Post-oil-spill safety improvements have eliminated the risk of similar spills.
Finally, get over it. The Arctic region is huge. The drilling operation will impact only a pinprick-sized area of the state.

Alaska is Alaska.

Palin is from Alaska. Some of her views may seem out of place in Washington, D.C., salons but are less so in her home state. To understand the woman, it helps to understand the lens through which she views the nation. That lens was ground and colored by a life in Alaska.

As the presidential race moves to the wire, voters will learn more about the governor. And in doing so they will learn more about the other 680,000 residents who call Alaska home. We may all be better off for the experience.

Stephen Dennis is a Bellevue-based writer who has traveled extensively in Alaska.

Palin and the Wolf

2008-09-11T08:25:00.000-07:00

In the rush to figure out who John McCain’s running mate, Governor Palin, really is Senator Obama’s operatives have been scouring her public record in Alaska. One alleged position that hit the news wires came as no surprise to the residents of her home state but seemed to shock east coast commentators.

“Palin supports wolf hunting from airplanes.”

In Washington D. C., were wolves do not run free, wolf lovers were aghast. In Alaska the love-hate relationship with wolves is older than the fifty year old state itself. Correspondence from 1941, before America went to war, illustrates that the idea of wolf hunting from the air is not a new or discredited idea.

“I have been wondering whether wolves can be killed in mentionable numbers by ground strafing with regular Army equipment and, if this can be done, whether you will consider having some of your fliers attempt it when conditions are right,” asked J. Sidney Rood, the General Reindeer Supervisor for Alaska in a January 1941 letter to the Commanding Officer of Ladd Field in Fairbanks, Alaska. In his Department of the Interior post, Rood was frustrated by the dramatic decline in the Alaska reindeer population during the 1930’s and placed much of the blame for that decline on marauding wolf packs. The wolves “…have killed at least 200,000 reindeer since 1934.” Rood stated. Something had to be done and aerial strafing seemed to be an innovative approach.

According to Department of Interior reports, wolves had been reported on the reindeer ranges since reindeer were introduced to Alaska in 1892. Single wolves or a single family occasionally would be spotted but the threat was not viewed as serious.

But Alaska reindeer populations began serious decline during the 1930’s. Alarm spread slowly at first. Government reindeer managers either didn’t notice the decline or assumed it was only a temporary situation. In May of 1933 the superintendent for the Northwestern District of the Reindeer Service wired his boss indicating that the Barrow area was facing a serious invasion by wolves. He noted that over 100 “deer” had been killed. In 1934 the Kuskokwim Unit Manager requested permission to use poison to stem the growing wolf threat. Shaktoolik, Point Hope and Newhalen stations all reported heavy losses to wolves during 1934.

By 1935 reindeer stations across Alaska were sounding the alarm. Plans were proposed to bring in professional hunters and trappers to stem the wolf tide and to educate the native population on herd management. But depression era belt tightening limited the resources available to fund the effort.

While there may have been other factors at work in the decline of the reindeer population, attention focused on the wolf. Reindeer populations were declining and the wolf populations were increasing. Logic suggested a connection between the two. The wolves had to go.

The reindeer decline wasn’t imagined. It was real. In 1969, Dean Olson, writing on the history of Alaska reindeer for the University of Alaska, Fairbanks noted that the reindeer population in Alaska declined from about 640,000 in 1932 to only 250,000 in 1940.

Reindeer were important to Alaska in 1941. By Rood’s estimate, over 10,000 people, mostly natives, depended on reindeer for all or part of their food. In addition, cold weather clothing from reindeer hides was important to both the native population and to the U.S. Army. The Army, in anticipation of a growing presence in the north, was contracting with natives for the manufacture of cold weather clothing for their troops. Rood estimated that over 34,000 reindeer hides would be required annually for clothing purposes.

“The Army has preferred reindeer parkas, because reindeer fawn skins are the warmest of light skins,” according to Rood.

If wolves were indeed the problem, why resort to air power to control them? Because, Rood reported, nothing else seemed to work.

Poison was not an option. It posed risks for fox and other animals, valued by the natives. In any case, it was prohibited by the Territorial Law.

Trapping had been tried with little success. First, the natives didn’t have experience trapping wolves. Second, it was a difficult proposition in the best of circumstances. The “…Newhouse No. 114 traps…” were heavy and unsuited to sled travel prompting complaints by the natives. The wolves did not tend to follow trails in the wide open country so trap placement was problematical and drifting snow buried the traps. There were no trees to tie the traps to and the natives apparently lacked the patience to melt snow in sub zero conditions to anchor the traps.

While the Territory was offering a $20 wolf bounty few trappers were taking advantage of the program.

Hunting was a challenge any time. With the herd covering a range almost as large as the state of California, tracking was difficult. Roads were scarce for summer travel and winter hunting was limited by the absence of daylight and the wide open spaces.

Additionally Rood didn’t think “…the guns of the Natives (in the .30-.30 lever action, open-sight class) [were] of the best type and condition for open-country wolf shooting.”

Hunting from the air, however, could overcome many of the problems. Large distances could be covered rapidly and different weapons could be used. Fighter planes, or pursuit planes as they were called in 1941, could tilt the balance against the wolves.

To prove the feasibility of aerial hunting Rood wrote about his own wolf hunting experience during the spring of 1940. Flying from Kotzebue to Selawik at 1500 feet in a small plane they spotted two wolves, contrasted clearly against the snowy backdrop. They proceeded to Selawik and switched to a Curtis Robin, feeling the slower “Robin” presented a superior shooting platform. They retraced their flight pattern and relocated the wolves. According to Rood, they descended from 1500 feet and slowed to about 75 miles per hour. Closing on the wolves they killed them with buckshot from a 12 gauge shotgun.

“Of course, I imagine it is one thing to hunt wolves from a fairly slow ship, using buckshot, but quite a different thing to use a hot pursuit ship employing machine guns, and success with the latter equipment may not be possible,” Rood observed.

Rood had done his homework. He believed he had demonstrated that the wolves were an issue. He had shown how they could be tracked and killed from the air. Using the Army Air Corps “hot pursuit ships” as wolf hunters seemed like a good idea. The army needed practice with ground targets and the wolves needed to be controlled.

How did the Army respond? Rood’s letter made it to the desk of the Post Adjutant, Lt Walseth. There is no record of a response.

We do know the Army Air Corp in Fairbanks at the time was ill equipped to fight anything. Set up as a cold weather test facility their fleet consisted of two early model B-17 bombers, several observation aircraft and a few Curtis P-37 pursuit or fighter planes.

The P-37 was a stretched out version of an older Curtis model, the P-36. To fit a new more powerful engine, the old P-36 design was stretched and the cockpit was pushed back. From the new cockpit position the pilots had a difficult time seeing well enough to land and take off, let alone hunt wolves. The planes were more of a risk to the pilots than the wolves! Only thirteen of the planes were accepted by the Army before the plane was cancelled. Most of the poorly designed planes made it to Alaska!

If the Army took a few shots at the wolves, they didn’t report it. It is more likely that, by the time the request made its way through “channels” Pearl Harbor had been attacked and Alaska was at war.

The wolf debate in Alaska continues to this day. Palin, the proud hunter, is likely well positioned to explain the wolf hunting from a plane controversy should the subject come up.

But, no matter how the U. S. election goes, locals don’t expect the Army or the Air Force to be called in anytime soon.

Traveling with Grandchildren

2008-07-18T15:39:00.000-07:00

Looking for a chance to spend quality time with a grandchild? How about taking them on a trip?

Travel experts report a boom in intergenerational travel fueled in part by the bulge in boomer retirees with time on their hands, good health and plump wallets. And why not? Properly planned, a trip with grandchildren can be a wonderful experience for everyone involved.

The grandparent gets quality, one-on-one time with the child.

The parents, who are often both still working, know their child is in good hands having the time of their young lives.

The kids get to go on an adventure to remember.

As one traveling grandparent said, “I’d rather leave them with memories than money. Money is quickly spent but memories last a lifetime.”

The range of destinations is limitless; from independent travel to organized tours targeted specifically at the grandparent/grandchild combination. Activity levels vary from going and looking to going and doing; visit Yellowstone, tour the nation’s capital, take a cruise, raft the Colorado River, cycle Vermont, hike in the Rockies…. The idea list is limited only by one’s imagination and can be tailored to the interests and ability of the participants.

As wonderful as a good trip can be, a poorly planned excursion can leave the wrong kind of memories. So, don’t simply select a trip that you, the adult, will enjoy. Talk to the child and their parents about options. Having them involved in the planning will make it more their trip, not simply your trip that they are joining. Besides, it’s good to talk with grandchildren. You may be surprised at where their interests lie.

Pick the destination carefully. Do you want to try something new or revisit a place you previously enjoyed? If you recall a great hike from your past, consider it. If you know your way around New York City you can be the tour guide. Or think about a place that will be new to all of you. Whatever you consider, don’t forget the child. Do they like to read or run? Have they ever slept in a tent or is a bed preferred? Have they ever been away from the parents before? If not, a short “test” trip might be in order. Do they live nearby (so you know them well) or across the country (so you are a gray haired stranger.)

Some travelers like to plan their own trips. There are advantages to independent travel as opposed to an organized tour. You will likely be together with the child more and free of group distractions. That works well for some grandparents.

Other travelers prefer the guided tour approach to travel. The child might enjoy having other kids along. Often tours offer educational opportunities that grandparents would have trouble duplicating. And the grandparents may welcome some quiet time when the child is engaged with a guide or other young people.

Consider the ages involved. There is no “best” age to travel. But an effort should be made to match the destination with the ages of all parties. The six year old might do well at Disneyland but poorly on a trip to Florence. Rock climbing might attract the sixteen year old but be a bit tough on Grandpa. There are enough choices out there that age appropriate activities are not hard to find. Some of the organized tours, Elderhostel for example, tailors each tour to children of a certain age range. That allows them to focus the adventure on kids of similar abilities and insures they are surrounded by peers as well as their grandparents.

Pick an activity level that suits all parties. If little Johnny lives a sedimentary existence don’t try to turn the trip into a two week boot camp. You may try to amp up the activity level from what he is used to but don’t try to remake the child. It will only frustrate the grandparent and irritate the child. So consider the child’s interests, match them with your own and try to select an activity both can enjoy.

As an alternative, consider a trip that has different activities for adults and kids. For example, if you visit a dude ranch, you don’t have to ride your assigned steed every day or at all. Let the child go with the guide. You will still have quality time together. Some cruise lines offer family suites and programs for kids of all ages. You can turn the kids loose in the morning and see them at dinner. The same is true for all-inclusive resorts, like Club Med. The time together comes when they return from the day’s activity and report in.

Planning for travel success doesn’t end once you have selected an interest, age and activity appropriate destination. Next think about the little things.

Help the grandchild put together a packing list; things they shouldn’t leave home without. On an organized tour, the operator may have a suggested packing list for you. Do you need special shoes; a backpack or sunscreen? Don’t forget the earphones, a benefit if you have different musical tastes. Other ideas:
· Get a medical release from the parents in case care is needed on the trip.
· Plan ahead if a passport will be required.
· Are there any books, videos or web sites they should experience that will enhance their enjoyment or understanding of the destination?
· A camera and journal will add to the memory of the trip. If the child doesn’t have one, consider providing one. You know how important they can be even if the child may not.

Most important, once you are on your way, relax and enjoy yourself. Remember, kids will be kids. Traveling with kids is different from traveling with your spouse of many years. You might have to share the bathroom. They might leave their things around the room. You may be surprised by their choice of clothing. Go with the flow and you will stitch a memory for the child that will last them forever; and that’s a good thing.

FOR MORE INFORMATION
Whether traveling independently or with a group, the web is a resource. A Google search of “intergenerational travel” reveals a wealth of resources and ideas. The list below targets some specific tour groups. Even if you don’t chose a tour company you will find some wonderful destination ideas in their listings.

The Sierra Club offers a range of outings targeted to families and suitable for grandparent/grandchild travel. They tend to be more physical than some tours. Opportunities exist to work on trail building and other public service activities while you enjoy the outdoors.
www.sierraclub.org/outings/national/

Grandtravel is the high end choice. They can take you from Africa to Alaska and many places in between. This firm specifically targets intergenerational trips.
www.grandtrvl.com/web/guest/Home

Most of the cruise lines offer family programs that work for Grandparent/Grandchild travel. The Norwegian Cruise Line offers Freestyle Family Fun with programs for all age groups. Holland America, through Club HAL and a teen program, can also keep the kids occupied. Disney Cruise Lines is all about kids and families. With a busy cruise activity program the child may be away from the grandparent as much as they are with them. But they are sure to come home with lots of memories.
www.ncl.com
www.hollandamerica.com
www.disneycruise.com

As the name implies, Rascals in Paradise delivers a menu of family friendly, active tours appropriate for an active grandparent/grandchild team.
www.rascalsinparadise.com/

Butterfield & Robinson offers a range of age specific tours. You can select from tours for kids 5+, 8+ and 12+. Most are abroad and involve cycling. Each trip is rated for “activity” level so you can judge how strenuous they might be.
http://www.butterfield.com/

Don’t be fooled by the Elderhostel name. Elderhostel trips are not for wimps. Originally they focused on adults, 55 and up. Now they offer over 150 tours designed for grandparents with grandchildren. You can select different activities and activity levels that are designed for specific age groups. The Elderhostel program mixes activity with education in a package that has an appeal across generations.
http://www.elderhostel.org/

Retiring Relationships; Managing the Non-Financial Side of Retirement

2008-07-18T15:15:00.000-07:00

Retirement! Your whole career it’s out there; a distant thing that your father went through. Then suddenly, or so it might seem, retirement time is here. It may be something you elect to do or it may be thrust upon you as in “downsizing” or “layoff.” Either way one day you are a productive member of the workforce and then next you are a retiree. Will you be ready?

No problem you say? You have your IRA, 401K and your financial plan all tuned for the big day. But how about your non-financial plan? What are you going to do with yourself? How do your plans mesh with your spouse’s? Have you thought about it? Does it matter? After 40 years in the workforce you may now face an identity crisis like you last faced as an adolescent.

Think about it. While working you typically have structure in your day and a sense of purpose. You spend time away from your spouse. You exert influence, earn praise and have a sense of identity. Friendships often revolve around work and business. The day you retire much more than a paycheck goes away. It may come as a shock to realize that, no matter how valuable you were to your firm, they will get along without you.

So the question is, how do you prepare and execute your “non-financial” retirement plan? Fortunately there are a few simple steps you can take to ease your slide into the retirement world. Consider these:
1. Plan ahead (as in before the day you retire.)
2. Talk (as in communicate with your partner.)
3. Compromise (as in be willing to give a little.)
4. Get a space (as in a shop, office or a place to go.)
5. Get a life (as in find something to do.)
6. Know that nothing is something (as in reading a good book counts.)

We’ll look at these ideas one at a time.

PLAN AHEAD
Harry was shocked the day after he retired. No meetings were scheduled. His Blackberry was silent. No one was asking his opinion. Other than eating three meals and reading the paper his day was open. His wife was busy with her own schedule. What was he to do?

Harry shouldn’t have been surprised. Without a plan he was going through the same withdrawal symptoms that thousands of retirees face each year. Keith Bender, a professor of economics at the University of Wisconsin, found that retirees with a plan are happier in retirement than those who enter retirement with no plan or only a financial plan.

There are simple ways to avoid Harry’s dilemma. Learn what to expect in retirement before you get there. Talk to recent retirees. They can be a great source of comfort and insight. Businesses, brokers and some colleges offer retirement planning seminars. Buy a good book on retirement planning. A search for retirement planning books on Amazon provides a broad range of choices.

Take a look, buy a book and avoid Harry’s surprise.

TALK
"What we've got here is failure to communicate." That memorable quote from Paul Newman’s Oscar winning 1967 film “Cool Hand Luke” aptly describes many post retirement marriages. Two people, married for years, suddenly find themselves thrust together 24/7. The “underfoot syndrome” begins to poison the relationship. Studies suggest that only a small percentage of marriages go sour after retirement but many undergo high levels of stress as they pass through a period of adjustment. If the partners don’t talk freely about this new stage in life the stress can be daunting.

The new retiree often forgets that their spouse already has a life and daily schedule. The retiree’s presence during the day can be viewed more as an intrusion than a joy as the non-working spouse feels a loss of independence. The partners may find they have widely differing views on what constitutes an “ideal” retirement.

Upon retiring Jeff planned to sell the house and move to their Whidbey Island home full time. Oops, he forgot to tell his wife. They didn’t move.

Sally retired and began using Dave’s home computer during the day. But Dave used it for his home business and had never shared it before. They bought a second computer.

Larry assumed they would begin eating all their meals together. Betty had her own schedule and it didn’t include making three meals a day for Larry. They have dinner together.

Bill and Ann both retired. She assumed they would travel. He assumed he would golf near home with friends. They are a work in progress.

On the surface all these examples seem petty and insignificant. But if left to fester all can (and did) cause friction for far too long. In each case the offended spouse hoped the issue would resolve itself and avoided talking about it until the minor irritation grew into a major confrontation. To complicate the matter further, each of these incidents were one of many points of friction. Taken out of context they seem like no big deal but, taken along with a other friction points they grew to flash points, resolved only when anger and frustration grew to a breaking point.

The suggested solution; talk or communicate in ways that work for you. Following a series of miscommunications one couple set aside Monday morning for a weekly “meeting” to review points of friction and communicate plans for the week. After the post retirement routines were in place the need for the meeting diminished but, at first, it was a welcome outlet. Another pair leaves their respective calendars in the kitchen so each knows what the other has planned for the week. They point out they are providing information to their spouse, not asking permission.

However you communicate do it often enough that the little issues don’t become big ones.

COMPROMISE
My way or the highway! That management style may work at the office. It is harder to execute at home. Unless a relationship is indescribably harmonious or absolutely tyrannical the transition into retirement will entail some compromise. Embrace it. The outcome may be better than you envisioned.

Who will take the car for service? Who will plan the vacations? Where will you vacation? Do you work out together or independently? Who pays the bills? When is “my” time on the computer?

Questions that seemed resolved over years of marriage surface again when the former worker comes home. Jerry thought he would have more time to pursue his own interests in retirement and that his wife would continue to manage the home as before. Her response; “when do I get to retire? I managed the home because I knew you were engaged at work.” In her view it was time to reassign the home management tasks. Jerry was surprised; they compromised.

Compromise should not be confused with “giving in.” It isn’t a win-lose discussion. It’s a timely assessment of a new reality.

Sally and Jim, married at 50 and retired at 60, faced each other at the kitchen table discussing their retirement options. She liked sun, beaches and being near the water. He liked fishing. They purchased a 42 foot boat, took a boating safety course, joined a local yacht club and have never looked back. It was the first boat either had owned and a win-win solution.

Bill and Ann resolved their golf vs. travel conflict by planning travel to destinations where golf was an option allowing Bill to play at a whole range of new courses.

A successful compromise doesn’t have to include a major purchase. It can simply involve agreeing to split household chores, scheduling computer time, allocating time to be alone or with friends (awayness time vs. togetherness time.)

GET A SPACE
A psychologist could likely explain why we have a need for a place to call our own. Maybe it’s because we always had a place at work that was “ours.” Maybe it’s a womb envy thing. But for whatever reason a retiree needs a place to call their own. It could be a desk, a shop, a sewing room, a craft area or even a rented space away from home.

The space may reflect the needs of a new hobby or of a second profession. If you take up quilting you need a place to spread out. If you decide to build a wooden kayak you need space to make a mess. If you are managing your investments you need an office area that you might not want to share with your spouse. If you are taking up a second profession or doing non-profit work you will need all the trappings of an office; phone, fax, computer.

Even if you are doing none of these things you may just need a refuge to call your own. By setting up your own area, for whatever purpose, you can set the rules and avoid spousal conflicts.

Short of space? Look at options. Take a table at Starbucks. Visit the Library. Find a desk at the non-profit you are working with. Spend more time at your summer home or on your boat.

Unsure of what of what kind of space you’ll need? Don’t worry. It will evolve once you begin to sort out your post retirement activities.

One final note about space. Don’t mess with your spouse’s space. No spouse wants to come home and hear, “honey, I’ve found a new way to optimize our closet and storage space” or “dear, I’ve rearranged your things in the garage. Doesn’t it look nice?” Don’t go there.

GET A LIFE
There is no excuse for boredom in retirement. Period.

Sadly not every retiree would agree with that statement. And many potential retirees live in fear of retirement because they dread “having nothing to do.” Staying physically and mentally active is also good for your health. Dr Eric Sundstrom, a University of Tennessee professor of psychology, says “people who are engaged live longer and happier than those who sit on the porch and rock….”

Successful retirees tend to parrot a hackneyed line; “I’m so busy in retirement I don’t know when I ever had time to work.” It’s true. There is plenty to do out there if, and it’s a big “if,” you will be proactive and find something that matches your interests.

Manage your investments. Remodel a house. Train for a marathon. Get a hobby; there are too many to list. Work for a non-profit. Visit city hall and find a board or committee to work on. Get active in a political party. Run for office. Take up reading. Mentor a child. If worse comes to worse, get a real job.

Unattached John capitalized on his interest in World War I, took French lessons at community college, read extensively and then moved to France for six months to walk the battlefields and meet the people.

Matt is a volunteer sailing instructor at the Wooden Boat Center on Lake Union.

Sue volunteers at a hospital.

Nancy retired from teaching and now substitute teaches in the same district.

Getting a life after retirement serves many purposes. You do something of value. You have a reason to get up in the morning. It gives you some time away from your spouse so they can nurture their own interests.

Dr. Paul Nussbaum, a neuropsychologist at the University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine argues that mental and physical activity is critical to a healthy brain. Travel, for example, puts the brain in a complex environment and provides healthy mental activity. Physical activity stimulates the brain, refreshing blood flow. Start moving and keep thinking. Don’t get stuck in a rocking chair with the TV remote.

One caveat. Don’t get too involved. When that chance to travel comes up you don’t want to be over committed!

KNOW THAT NOTHING IS SOMETHING
Do nothing? What kind of advice is that? Taken in context, sound advice. While post retirement activity is encouraged don’t forget to stop and smell the roses. It is OK to have a quiet visit with a friend or grandchild. It is OK to sit and read a book or meet a friend for coffee. After all, you may have spent your entire working career on a schedule treadmill. You’re retired. It is OK to take it easy some of the time provided you still remember the suggestions noted above.

Retirement is a time you can do things you didn’t have time for in the past. Take advantage of the opportunity. The key word is balance. Balance activity with relaxation. Balance recreation with stimulation. Balance time with your spouse with time away. Everyone is different. Find your balance point and enjoy your retirement.

Retirement years can be the best part of your life. Census numbers suggest that if you make it to 60 years of age odds are good that you will see 80 which means that nearly a third of your adult life might be spent in retirement. Relish it. Take advantage of it. Enjoy the time you can spend with your spouse while respecting the time you spend away. You just may be pleasantly surprised where the retirement road takes you.

FOR MORE INFORMATION
Interested in more information on retirement preparation? With 78 million baby boomers marching toward retirement there is a wealth of information being generated to make their retirement transition as successful as possible. Here is a sample.

Local colleges offer a range of programs aimed at the retired and soon to be retired. They include:
Bellevue Community College at: www.conted.bcc.ctc.edu/index.asp
The Osher Lifelong Learning Institute at the University of Washington at: www.outreach.washington.edu/olli/
A number of retiree resources sites are available on the web. Here are just a few.
www.matureresources.org
www.mynextphase.com
www.navigatingyourretirement.com
If you like to curl up with a good book try:
“For Better or for Worse...But Not for Lunch : Making Marriage Work in Retirement” by Sara Yogev
“The Power Years: A User's Guide to the Rest of Your Life” by Ken Dychtwald and Daniel J. Kadlec

Vermont; A Snowy Winter Playground

2008-07-18T14:44:00.000-07:00

Ready to explore a new winter vacation destination? Tired of Whistler rain and interminable border crossing delays? Bored by Sun Valley’s predictably good weather? Then perhaps it’s time to branch out, skip the western half of the country and give Vermont a try.

Unexplored by most west coast travelers, Vermont is full of surprises for anyone with a love of snow and an interest in trying a new vacation destination. The major resorts offer all that you would expect in a winter package; alpine and cross-country skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, sleigh rides and ice skating. Seeking a slower tempo? Smaller inns offer cross-country and snowshoeing opportunities far from the bustle of the big name resorts. And, everywhere in the region, visitors are exposed to the natural beauty, country charm and rich history of the state.

While not one of the 13 original colonies, Vermont was first settled in 1724 and joined the union as the 14th state in 1791. For the skier, that historic charm is very much in evidence in the 100 year old village of Stowe, just a short drive from the 75 year old Stowe Resort. The modern ski area draws energy from the well preserved Stowe Village with its many shops, restaurants and lodging choices. And don’t be put off by the age of the village and resort. This Northern Vermont resort is modern beneath the surface, offers a range of winter activities and has recently spent over fifty million dollars on new lifts to whisk skiers up the mountain.

Scattered down the mountain spine of the state here are resorts for every taste and skill level. Killington, the east coast’s largest ski area, boasts the most lifts, most runs and the most vertical drop in the state. Okemo, little known outside the state, is known as the ‘family place’ with its emphasis on kid friendly activities. If you would like to sample several resorts during a single vacation, other resorts, like Mount Snow, Sugarbush and Stratton, are just a short drive from one another.

Killington’s lift pass covers seven peaks with the tallest offering 3000 feet of vertical. That compares favorably with Sun Valley’s 3400 feet of vertical. The area boasts of over 200 inches of natural snowfall in an average year backed up by the state’s largest snow making system, in case mother nature throws a curve. Their expansive lift network includes two heated high-speed express gondolas. Its large size tends to draw large crowds so a traveler would be wise to avoid the holidays or the big three-day winter weekends.

Okemo Mountain Resort, just 20 miles from Killington, has added new lifts and lodging in its pursuit of the family market. Spread over two mountains and served from two bases skiers can choose from easy green runs to knee banging black diamonds so no one is left out.

While all the major areas cater to alpine and cross-country skiers and snow boarders Stratton Resort hold the title as the home of the first serious snowboard. Jake Carpenter, the founder of Burton Snowboards, reportedly snuck onto the Stratton slopes at night, when he wouldn’t be observed by competitors, to test his new metal edged designs. Stratton now offers four terrain parks for all levels of boarding enthusiast while still presenting a first class ski experience.

Not an downhill skier? You are not forgotten. All the major resorts offer a choice of winter activities. The woods around the mountains are laced with trails for more sublime cross-country or snowshoeing activities. Sled rides, ice skating and even snowmobile opportunities are available in or near most resorts. Over twenty areas focus entirely on the people powered trail sports, with no down hill facilities at all. For example, central Vermont’s Three Stallions Inn offers 30 miles of trails in an environment so quiet you can almost hear the sap flow from the sugar maples.

While there, be sure to sample Vermont’s cuisine. There’s more to Vermont than Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream. To support the local farm scene restaurants make a point of offering locally grown foods with a focus on their strong dairy industry. Vermont Cheddar, which is white, not yellow, is one of more popular though many varieties are produced by artisan cheese makers across the state. Woodstock Water Buffalo offers both Yogurt and a Mozzarella made from the milk of their Water Buffalos. The yogurt has a rich, sensuous feel, quite different from traditional styles.

No visit would be complete without savoring something “maple.” In addition to syrup you can find candy, pancake mix, bacon, ham and sausage all flavored with maple drawn from their ubiquitous trees. In Vermont it seems there is little that can be eaten that can’t be flavored with maple.

While Vermont seems far from Bellevue, connections to Burlington, the states largest city, or Boston place you within three hours of all the major areas. Burlington is less than one hour from Stowe, one of the more northerly resorts. The promise of lots of snow mixed with the charm and beauty of the state justifies a few more hours in the air.

Vermont doesn’t offer Rocky Mountain powder but new grooming and snow making technology allows the resorts to make the most of the abundant snow and overcome their old reputation for icy slopes. With lots of snow and good grooming you will find enough good corduroy to satisfy your need for speed. As for the weather, temperatures in the teens are common during the ski season so pack your warmest gear. You may not need it but it’s good insurance.

Visitors can choose from a range of lodging types; from rustic B & B’s and inns to four star hotels. Resort condos and mid range hotels are also available. Vermont visitors can select as much “charm and quaintness” as they wish. Stowe, for example, is all New England in feel and appearance. Other resorts present a more contemporary European or Rocky Mountain atmosphere.

If your idea of a winter vacation encompasses the entire package; atmosphere, history, food, lodging, time spent in front of the fireplace, weather and snow quality, then Vermont has a lot to offer. If you measure trip success in feet of vertical achieved, then stay in the Rockies.

Still not sure you want to risk New England travel in the winter. Fear not. Jet Blue recently inaugurated non-stop service from Burlington to Orlando. If the thermometer plunges during you visit you can slip away for a few days of sun while your friends at home think you are shivering in the mountains of Vermont.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Many on-line resources are available to help you design your winter vacation.
The Vermont Chamber of Commerce Provides extensive information on activities, lodging and dining choices in the Green Mountain State. Request their Winter Vacation Guide at the site. They will send it along with a state highway map.http://www.vtchamber.com/

Another good source of general information is provided at http://www.newenglandtravelplanner.com/outdoors/ski/vt/

A quick link to all the alpine and cross-country ski areas and other useful winter activity information can be found at the site of the Vermont Ski Association. Links to specific areas and inns are provided at the site.http://www.skivermont.com/

Remember the “Sound of Music?” Vermont is the home of the famous Trapp family and their inviting lodge near Stowe. Don’t expect to Julie Andrews but the lodge is wonderful and you could pick up an edelweiss mug at the extensive gift shop.http://www.trappfamily.com/

Looking for a quiet inn away from the bustle. Try the Select Registry.http://www.selectregistry.com/default.aspx
The Three Stallion Inn offers cross country trails in a four star wrapper.http://www.skivermont.com/crosscountry/resort/threestallion
For an inn experience near both Killington and Okemo try the cozy October Country Inn.http://www.vermontinns.net/
For a walk back through time at Stowe try the Green Mountain Inn. Dating from 1833 the centrally located in is in walking distance of the village shops and restaurants.www.greenmountaininn.com

Free Stuff; A Guide to Seattle Area Bargains

2008-07-18T14:31:00.000-07:00

The Seattle metro area is one of the nations best places to live. With robust arts and education communities and an abundance of recreational opportunities there is so much to do. And it may be a surprise to learn how many of these activities are absolutely free!

Yes, zero, zilch, nada, free. The region offers a menu of free places and events broad enough to satisfy nearly every age and taste.

For example, travel guru Rick Steves offers free travel classes where you can learn about topics ranging from travel destinations and language to how to ride a train in Europe.

In its area stores, kitchen retailer Williams Sonoma offers “technique demonstrations” on topics as diverse as the basics of omelet making to tips for holiday entertaining. Topics and times vary so it’s advisable to call your nearest store for a schedule.

Wine tasting at area wineries is another free activity. One of the regions largest wineries, Château Ste. Michelle, offers visitors wine samples and the opportunity to wander their beautiful Woodinville grounds. But it is just one of dozens of local wine makers who can be found by typing “seattle wine tasting” in the search box at citysearch.com.

If your interests roam beyond travel, food and wine you will find a wide array of additional options available.

The Fry Museum is always free. Most other major museums allow free access at times. The Seattle Art Museum has evenings free to the public the first Thursday of each month, to seniors the first Friday and to teens the second Friday. Boeing sponsors a free night, the first Friday of the month at the Bellevue Art Museum.

If you prefer airplanes to art the Museum of Flight opens its doors to everyone the first Thursday of the month, in a program sponsored by Wells Fargo Bank.

The performing arts want to encourage your visits as well though tickets are not quite free. Many of the theaters staging live plays offer “near free” opportunities by holding “pay what you can” evenings. The Seattle Repertory Theater holds a “pay what you can” evening once during each main stage production with a one dollar minimum payment. Act Theater sets aside two nights during each production, suggesting a five dollar payment but accepting more or less, down to one dollar. Contact you favorite theater to learn of their programs and dates. In most cases the tickets are offered on a space available basis. The Paramount Theater offers a free tour of their beautifully restored facility the first Saturday of each month but doesn’t offer free shows. For history buffs that trumps actually sitting through an expensive event!

Water lovers are not left out of the regional bargain hunt. The Hiram M. Chittenden Locks, in Ballard, are open to all everyday during daylight hours. If you don’t think watching boats motor through the locks is entertaining then you haven’t been there at the end of along summer weekend when the boats are pouring home and the crews a little weary. If you tire of boat watching, wander over to the fish ladder where all ages can enjoy watching salmon make the climb from salt water to fresh. If gardens are your thing save time to visit the extensive and well maintained gardens as you return to your car.

On the opening day of boating, the first Saturday in May, celebrations, crew races and boat parade make the Montlake cut, near Husky Stadium, the best waterfront bargain in town. Any boater will advise you that it is always cheaper to watch a boat than own one.

For those who would like to board a boat, rather than just watch, the Center for Wooden Boats, at the south end of Lake Union, offers free rides most Sundays from 2:00 to 3:00. The Seattle Singles Yacht Club offers free boating lessons from time to time. Check their web site or give them a call to see if any are planned.

The University of Washington, offers a number of bargains. The athletic department welcomes all to their spring football game at Husky Stadium. For kids it’s a chance to get close to the players and create a lasting memory. There are also kids camps and clinics offered in various sports at the “U .” If academics is your preference free on-line programs are available covering topics ranging from American History and Shakespeare to the History of Jazz.

Each April the three UW campuses open their doors to visitors of all ages offering department open houses, lectures and exhibitions. Such a visit could be particularly useful for a student trying to decide what course of study they might like to pursue at the UW or any other school. And the weekend gives new meaning to the school’s old advertising line, “you benefit [from the University] whether you go there or not.”

Summer, in the Seattle area, activities abound where you will not have to reach for your wallet. Seafair inspired events alone can keep you busy every weekend. Communities across the region sponsor parades, festivals and arts and crafts shows. Area 4th of July fireworks shows are all well worth the price of admission which, by the way, is zilch. The August Seafair finale presents the downtown torchlight parade and four ear splitting Blue Angel shows for the same low price.

Attending the big hydro race costs a few dollars but the TV coverage is excellent so you can enjoy the screaming boats from the comfort of home, for free.

The Christmas Holidays bring another elevation to the level of free community activities. The Seattle Center comes alive at a Winterfest celebration with activities for all ages. The Great Figgy Pudding Street Corner Caroling Competition, held in downtown Seattle, is a popular holiday tradition. Attendees can then wander the streets, enjoying the window displays on their way to the Sheraton hotel to examine the winners in the Gingerbread House competition that pits the areas leading architectural firms against one another.

Bellevue offers its own nightly holiday show with the festive Snowflake Lane extravaganza drawing hundred of celebrants to Bellevue Place. The Bellevue Botanical garden lights up its grounds for the holidays with a display that appeals to all ages and is free, free, free.

So now you have a comeback for those negative thinkers who think you can’t get something for nothing. It’s just not true. But at times there may be a price to pay for a “free” experience. Free nights at museums tend to draw crowds so don’t count on having the place to yourself. Discount nights at theaters fill up fast so you may not get to see the show. Dates and times can change, month to month, so be sure to check before you go to avoid disappointment. But if you are willing to look, verify before you go and be ready for some inconvenience at times, free opportunities abound. Enjoy them. They are a dividend you receive for living in a diverse and active metropolitan area.

FOR MORE INFORMATION
Web sites and advertising for area activities don’t always highlight the “free” options that are available so it is best to call for current information. Some helpful web sites include:

Click “Free Travel Classes” at http://www.ricksteves.com/ for information on available classes.

For area wine tasting opportunities visit http://www.citysearch.com/

Info on the Center for Wooden Boats is available at http://www.cwb.org/

For UW sports see http://www.gohuskies.com/

UW courses are described at www.outreach.washington.edu/openuw

The schedule of campus events during Washington Weekend, held each April, can be found at www.washington.edu/alumni/weekend

The City of Seattle does an excellent job of cataloging a range of regional fairs and festivals at www.seattle.gov/html/VISITOR/festival.htm

The Seattle Seafair site outlines activity schedules at http://www.seafair.com/

Golf at Sea; A Cruise and Golf Vacation Combo

2008-07-12T12:47:00.000-07:00

She wants to go on a cruise. You want a golfing vacation. Does this mean separate vacations are in the offing?

Not necessarily. The world’s cruise lines seem dedicated to keeping couples together by offering itineraries that combine cruising with golfing all over the world. With more baby boomers entering the travel market and more ships sailing the high seas the cruise industry is continuing to expand their offerings to attract more and diverse groups. Since golfers represent an ideal target audience for both golf and cruising, more attention is being devoted to attracting golfers to cruise destinations.

According to cruise planners, whether or not you are on a “golf” cruise, some level of golf has been always been available whenever a golf course is near a port of call on their itinerary. If you wanted to golf you advised the cruise concierge and they would arrange a shore excursion that met your needs. However, if the concierge lacked a knowledge of local courses, the planning and research might end up as a guest responsibility. The new, golf focused itineraries have taken the golf experience to a new level and the onboard golf pro can be looked on as a resource.

Consider the “Silver Links” program available on 12 Silversea cruises in 2008 and 16 in 2009. Presented on the two larger ships of their fleet the Silver Links program is staffed by a PGA class golf pro who is available to provide onboard instruction for guests. State-of-the-art video technology is available to assist with the lessons and provide real time instructional feedback. If you don’t want to lug your clubs along, Nike clubs are available for rent on board so you can hit the beach ready to swing.

As for destinations, the common theme is warm weather. Consider the following Silversea itineraries available in 2008.
· The “Mexican Riviera” voyage from Los Angeles to Costa Rica will put you ashore for golf at Cabo San Lucas, Puerto Vallarta, Zihuatanejo and Acapulco.
· The “Caribbean” voyage from Fort Lauderdale to Barbados will give you an opportunity to swing in Antigua, St. Lucia and Barbados.
· The “South Pacific” voyage from Sydney to Auckland will put you on the links in Melbourne, Christchurch, Wellington and five other locations “down under.”

Any one of these cruises will give you a chance to acquire bag tags that will impress your friends.
According to a Silversea’s spokesman, “Our golf cruises are an excellent option for the affluent traveler looking to hone his or her game on the finest international links and fairways. Avid golfers of all levels can combine a luxury vacation with the chance to enjoy guided golf excursions and priority tee times at some of the world’s most celebrated courses.”

Silverseas is not the only line with a golf focus. Princess Cruises now operates full-time “golf academies at sea” on four of their newest ships and plans to add similar features on the rest of the fleet in the near future. Like Silversea, Princess golf academies are staffed with golf professionals, offer instructions, putting contests, shore arrangements and other services to make the cruise a memorable experience for the cruising golfer.

Carnival Cruises supports similar programs and the trend seems to be spreading to other cruise lines around the world.

So couples can stay together, cruise together and golf together if they wish. The cruise industry is only too happy to supply the itineraries and activities you seek to make your vacation time a memorable time.

To learn more about “golf at sea” programs visit these sites or contact a cruise professional:
For Silverseas, http://www.silversea.com/ Then click “programs” and “enrichments.”

For Princess Golf, www.princessgolf.com/princess

Golf is not the only “specialty” offering available for a cruise. For example, consider the other enrichment topics available at Silversea.
· The Wine Series voyages offer lectures, tastings and private tours of world-class wineries and cellars. Red and white wine pairings are offered at meals to test the newly acquired knowledge.
· The Culinary voyages include guest chefs, special menus, demonstrations and cooking classes. Meals include some of the mouth watering offerings the guests saw prepared.
· The Art Aficionado voyages include guest lecturers whose presentations enhance visits to local art venues. Both visual and performing arts are highlighted.

That is just a sample of the long list of Silverseas specialty itineraries that also cover topics such as outdoor adventure, history and natural history. But they certainly don’t have a monopoly on theme cruises.

The website for the Cruise Lines International Association allows the traveler to select from a range of themed cruises from all of their member cruise lines.

Interested in rock’n roll music? Try Holland America Lines.

Want to attend personal finance and retirement planning seminars? Try Holland America, Crystal or Regent Lines.

Want to solve a murder mystery? Consider a “murder” itinerary with Cunard or Crystal Lines.The themed itinerary list goes on covering such diverse topics as theater, holidays, health and fitness, music and religion, just to name a few. Each cruise line approaches the idea a little differently and a good cruise travel agent could assist you with your planning. For a list of themed cruise options visit www.cruising.org/planyourcruise/guides/theme.cfm

Banks Island; The Thomsen River Kayak Trip

2008-07-10T15:47:00.000-07:00

The summer of 2005, club member Dean Behse, my wife Kathy and I were able to fulfill a long time dream. We joined two naturalist guides and five other guests for a once in a lifetime kayak trip down the remote Thomsen River in the Canadian Arctic. The trip came highly recommended and we were drawn to the area by the sheer remoteness of the place and the promise of an abundant birds and wildlife living in an area virtually untouched by humans. We were not disappointed.

The Thomsen River flows north in Aulavik National Park on Banks Island, which lies at the western entrance to the fabled Northwest Passage. About the size of Vancouver Island, Banks is home to less than 200 year around residents and the remote Aulavik Park sees fewer than fifty visitors in a typical year. The Thomsen can only be paddled during a narrow June-July window after the ice melts and before the water flow drops and it becomes too shallow. Like several other Canadian Arctic parks, Aulavik can only be reached by plane during the short summer season and offers absolutely no services of any kind for the visitor.

“That is the beauty of the place,” says Dean. “It’s totally undeveloped. Once you are in the park you’re on your own.”

We chose W&S Expeditions, a Canadian tour company, to lead our band of adventurers. We’d kayaked with them on two other occasions and it was their glowing reports of Banks Island wildlife that placed it on our “must see” list. The lead guide, Bob Saunders, was a biologist with nearly ten years experience guiding in the north country. The second guide, Jamie Whiteside contributed arctic experience, a penchant for organization and an exceptional singing voice to the mix.

In mid June the Bellevue contingent met former club member David Harrison, four other guests and the guides in Edmonton, Alberta, for the start of the journey. We flew north to Inuvik by commercial jet, spent the night and then boarded a chartered Twin Otter (the big brother to the deHavilland Single Otter flown locally by Kenmore Air) for the three hour flight across the Beaufort Sea to Banks.

Lacking a formal runway, a luxury in the Arctic, the Otter deposited us on the flat shoreline of the Thomsen River and left with the promise of a return flight from a particular sand island near the mouth of the river two weeks hence.

The plane’s departure was one of the more memorable moments of the trip. It lifted off into a snow filled 30 knot wind leaving our group standing on the treeless tundra beside a jumbled pile containing five collapsible kayaks, five tents and a mountain of food and personal gear. As we dug through the pile in search of additional winter clothes we all questioned the sanity of otherwise normal people who would give up home and hearth to come to such a barren place.

Once tents were up and anchored, providing us with a respite from the wind, spirits revived and we began to assess the island that was to be our home for the next two weeks. The slow flowing Thomsen is surrounded by low, rolling hills. From a distance the ground looks quite dead but on closer examination the tundra is very much alive with masses of hardy plants and spring flowers on a spongy base.
The first day was devoted to repacking our food stocks into kayak sized nylon bags which were distributed so each kayak carried a portion of the group supplies. In the land of the midnight sun the packing operation carried us into the evening and the first dinner wasn’t served until well past 10:00 p.m.

“Time somehow loses meaning when you have no schedule and it’s light 24-hours a day,” said Dean. “It became difficult to remember what day it was!”

The next morning we assembled our collapsible Klepper kayaks, by stretching their rubberized canvas skin over a fragile looking wooden frame. The sturdy little boats proved to be quite seaworthy and capable of carrying two people and all of our food and camping equipment.
The second day we fell into a routine that would be maintained for the duration of our Banks Island stay. With 24-hour daylight, eating habits were adjusted to reflect an Arctic tempo; breakfast mid morning, lunch late afternoon and dinner between 8:00 p.m. and 11:00 p.m. Any concern about sleeping in our bright yellow tents with the midnight sun were quickly dispelled. Typically tired after a day of paddling or hiking, no one complained about the light. On kayaking days we would break camp, be on the river by late morning and in a new camp by early evening. Other days we would stay ashore and devote our time to hiking, fishing or just relaxing.

The prevailing north wind was a factor everyday. The good news was that it kept all but the hardiest bugs at bay. But, with rare exceptions, it was always blowing against us on the river creating a paddling challenge. One afternoon we simply gave up paddling, tied lines to the kayaks and walked along the shore, dragging the boats behind.

Where possible we tucked our five rugged little tents into gullies beside the river, sheltered from the strongest winds. Our guides capitalized on that protection allowing them to perform kitchen magic at meal time. Breakfast ranged from staples like cold cereal and oatmeal to pancakes, omelets and eggs benedict. Lunch, in camp or on the river, consisted of cold cuts, fruit, a variety of breads and other surprises. Dinner was the highlight of the eating day. Soups, chili, burritos, cous cous and polenta served with assorted canned meats kept everyone’s calorie count up. When the fishermen were successful their Arctic char or trout would be added to the menu.

The promised wildlife did not disappoint us. The island is home to the world’s largest muskox herd. Built like an American buffalo the muskox sports a shaggy winter coat well adapted to the harsh northern winters. In the summer, as they shed their winter fur, they look a bit ragged. We saw them every day; sometimes in the distance and sometimes very close to camp. Normally they are skittish around people but we heard they can be aggressive so we treated them with respect. Wolf, fox and the hamster-like lemming rounded out the mammal populations. None of them proved curious enough to threaten our food supplies.

Dean, an early riser at home, maintained that schedule on the river taking morning hikes while everyone else slept. On one such hike he spotted and photographed the only wolf seen on the trip.

“He captured an image on his digital camera so we wouldn’t write off the sighting as a tall tale,” Kathy offered with a smile.

Bob, the guide, favored midnight hikes and had excellent luck spotting difficult to find birds and wildlife well after midnight.
Any concern about potential polar bears was put to rest by the guides who pointed out that the big white bears favor the ice pack along the island coast where the seal hunting is best. While not unheard of near the mouth of the Thomsen the guides had never encountered a bear up-river and rated the risk low. That was fine with us.

The wide variety of birds nesting on Banks provided a never ending aerial show. Considering that migrating birds must cross all of northern Canada and 100 miles of open sea to reach Banks the variety of bird life impressed us. Snowy owls, gyrfalcons, peregrine falcons, eiders, loons and sandhill cranes were just some of the species we identified.

In addition to birds and wildlife our guides provided an archeological bonus. Several hundred year old campsites along the river gave evidence of native peoples that once lived in this harsh environment. The absence of contemporary visitors meant the stone tent rings and other signs of native life were well preserved.

After 13 days, 100 miles of paddling, eight different camps, seven fish tales, one wolf tale and, between us all, about 2900 photographs we pulled ashore for the last time on a sand island that was to be our final campsite and the landing strip for the return flight. With a mix of relief and sadness we began taking the kayaks apart and organizing our gear for the flight out.

There had been some difficult days when wind and rain lashed our campsite, driving us into our tents for hours at a time. There was a day on the water when the wind was so persistent it felt like we were paddling in molasses. But those days were more than offset by the wildlife, the sunny days and the stark beauty of the island. Both guides and guests had made the best of every situation and nary a discouraging word was heard during the two weeks.

As the day of departure dawned we were reminded of Arctic Travel Rule #1 in the park visitor guide. “The schedule will change. Poor weather conditions often prevent scheduled flights from arriving on time. A delayed departure is a real possibility ...”

Via satellite phone the guides confirmed that weather in Inuvik had delayed all flights and put our schedule in jeopardy. After a long day of uncertainty we learned our plane was in the air and finally, as midnight approached, the sound of the reliable Otter was heard. After a last look around our river home we climbed aboard and were soon heading back to a world of cell phones and internet access.

“It was nice to be back but I wouldn’t trade the experience for anything. The trip proves there still are places on this earth where you can truly ‘get away from it all,’” said Dean.
Would we recommend the trip to others?

“Absolutely! It is one of the few unspoiled places left,” said Kathy. “I loved the birds and wildflowers. Another trip north is on my life list, but not this year.”

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR TRAVELERS
Northern Canada offers a range of choices for the would-be traveler. Many are accessible by car and lodging choices range from first class hotels to tents in the tundra. But the area can easily be enjoyed without “roughing it.” Festivals, fishing, hiking, boating, wildlife viewing and just driving around are options. A variety of online resources are available to help with your travel planning.

Canadian National Parks: The parks site provides information about the Canadian system; what to expect, how to get there and trip planning information. http://www.pc.gc.ca/

Provincial Government: The two northern provinces most accessible from Bellevue are the Yukon and Northwest Territories. Both have excellent sites to assist with your travel planning.
For the Yukon visit www.touryukon.com
For the Northwest Territories visit http://www.explorenwt.com/

Guides and Outfitters: There are many qualified outfitters and guides. They can be found with a web search or through links from the government sites. Outfitters in the area include:
W&S Expedition which offers several kayak trips in the area.
www.legendaryex.com
Nahanni River Adventures which offers trips on most of the areas major rivers. www.nahanni.com
Canadian River Expeditions which offers rafting and canoeing trips.
www.canriver.com
Black Feather offers canoe, kayak and hiking trips. The also offer women only trips. www.blackfeather.com